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The Right White From This Region

CUNE winery is one of Spain’s most distinguished wineries based in the epicenter of premium red wine production, Rioja. But Spaniards drink plenty of white wine, and export it too. Rias Baixas, pronounced “REE-AHSS-BYE-SHAHSS,” part of the state of Galicia, is the cool, damp, green corner of northwest Spain. The landscape is exceptional along the Atlantic coastline marked with irregular shallow fjords called rias. A densely planted patchwork of vineyards highlights vines trained on shoulder height pergolas. They assist in ventilating the grapes, especially in summer when sea mists invade the vineyards. The dominant grape variety planted here is the Albariño. Thick skinned, it can best resist the threat of mildew, an issue in this humid climate. Vinified only in stainless steel to preserve freshness with its typical classic, snappy style, it’s bright, green-straw in colour. Lemon, tropical fruit, and white pepper notes finish with a refreshing acidity. Alcohol is a moderate12.5% by volume. Enjoy solo, or pair with seafood or light rice dishes. Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com, gave the wine 91+ points.        

2024 La Val Albariño DO Rias Baixas LCBO #47861, $23.95