Harry's Blog

This past May, we had the pleasure of visiting the fascinating Island of Sicily. While politically part of Italy, it could be a continent itself located at the crossroads of the Mediterranean Sea. The vast coastline sports hundreds of sandy beaches while the interior has a remarkable range of landscapes. Ancient Greek ruins are a testament to a rich and storied history that spans several millennia. But we must mention grape growing and wine making, a flourishing, major sector of the economy.

One of Sicily’s most important wineries located close to the capital city of Palermo is Cusumano. Harry was graciously hosted by Export Manager Maria Leone, pictured here.

An extensive tour of the winery was followed by a comprehensive tasting of their range of wines. One of my favourites wines was Cusumano’s premium Syrah/Nero D’Avola blend hailing from Tenuta (vineyard) Prestie e Pegni. It is located 10 km inland from the sea in the village of Monreale, also famous for its magnificent cathedral, an absolute must see if you are in the area. Old vines of Sicily’s dependable indigenous work horse Nero D’Avola grape are suited to the same ideal terroir and planting as the international favourite, Syrah. We were so happy to hear during our visit that LCBO Vintages had ordered this wine and it is now available at your favourite retail location.     .     

Giving it 92 points, esteemed journalist James Suckling commented: “A bright and juicy red with aromas of dark cherries, blueberries and mild spices. Medium-bodied with fine tannins. Balanced and delicious, with a flavorful, peppery finish.” So close to the sea, we recommend pairing with grilled tuna steaks. 

2022 Cusumano Benuara Prestie e Pegni Syrah/Nero D;Avola LCBO # 597138, $17.95

The House Wine brand is a line of VQA Ontario wines created by the Speck Brothers, owners of Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery. Their philosophy is to create serious wines but not have them taken too seriously and simply enjoy. It’s a blend of Baco Noir (the Specks are THE masters in Ontario of this grape) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of dark red berries and spice with hints of smoked meat deliver a long, smooth finish. What to pair? Montreal smoked meat piled high and sandwiched on deli rye with stone ground Dijon mustard added to put a little zip on your lip. And it’s $2 off till February 1. Ottawa-based journalist Vic Harradine in his Wine Current blog awarded the wine 92 points. 

Everyone loves a bargain, specially after Christmas.

Red House Wine Co. Baco Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO # 279521 is $11.95 till Feb. 1, then back to regular pricing of $13.95.  

First, take the history and winemaking skills of Bordeaux’s Néel-Chombart family which goes back to the 16^th century. They are owners of Chäteau Lamothe de Haux. Then we have the Speck brothers (Henry of Pelham), original pioneering family winemakers in the Niagara Peninsula. A collaboration between the two could only be ideal. Cabernet Sauvignon is the world’s most widely planted red wine variety. And Bordeaux, France, is its epicenter. Start with one hundred percent Cabernet Sauvignon from prime vineyards situated on Right Bank clay and limestone based slopes that are at least 20 years old. After fermentation, ten months aging in oak barriques are followed by another two years of bottle maturation. In the background, the Speck brothers regularly liaise and consult with the Chombarts on all aspects of the wine’s production. 

Deciding on a brand name, Cave de Mystère, was easy as there is a great story behind it. The  cellars of Chäteau Lamothe de  Haux date back to the 1700s, when kilometers of limestone caves beneath the vineyards were excavated to provide building materials for the construction of the city of Bordeaux. These caves have provided shelter since prehistoric times, and the walls bear the marks of both primitive tools and the pickaxes of 18th-century French labourers. The dug out caves provide, fortuitously, the perfect underground cellars ideal for ageing.

Complex with black currant and sandalwood aromas, well integrated tannins and a long finish are highlights of this Bordeaux red from the classic vintage of 2020. Enjoy with your favourite meat dish. 

2020 Chombart & Speck Cave Mystère Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO #39096, $19.95

One of the world’s icon dessert wines is Hungary’s Tokaji, pronounced Tow-Kye. After over four decades of being stuck politically behind the iron curtain, the Royal Tokaji Wine Company was founded in 1990. Co-founder was the world’s most widely read winewriter, Hugh Johnson. His mission was to resurrect this classic style of wine that had lost its magic under inefficient communist government mass production. Quantity consistently trumped quality.       

A dry table wine made up of a fermented cuvée of local white, indigenous Hungarian grapes is the starting point. A second fermentation is created by adding the desired number of puttonyos (a measure of shriveled aszu grapes affected by the friendly botrytis cinerea fungus). The more puttonyos, the sweeter the resulting wine. Our wine has 5 puttonyos. The fermentation is aided by a friendly cellar-born fungus which covers cellar walls, deep below ground level. It’s a miracle of nature, too, unique to the Tokaji region, where, at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers, fall mists promote the formation of noble rot on the grapes. The indigenous fungus does the job with its particular yeasts and bacteria working to assist in giving birth to the unctuous dessert wine the world has come to appreciate and love.

It's a beautiful wine to sip on its own, with the appropriate background music, especially when in a contemplative mood. Think rhapsody rather than rap. It’s also a great partner to fois gras, but we think the perfect match made in heaven, or in the cheese shop, is blue-veined cheese. Then again, it’s the ideal dessert in liquid form. There probably isn’t a dessert this Christmas season that won’t match Tokaji. Spicy, beautifully balanced with a sweet, fresh finish, enjoy it now. But it will age beautifully for years. The 2O24  International Wine & Spirit Competition scored it 96 points.      

2018 Royal Tokaji Blue Label 5 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszu 500 ml, LCBO # 48262, $64.95.

Grenache is the most widely planted red grape in France’s sunny southern Rhône region. In Spain it’s called Garnacha, their widely planted work-horse red. It tends to be planted as low slung, free standing bush vines easily cultivated and pruned from all directions. No wonder it has found the perfect overseas home down under in Australia’s premium warm climate Barossa Valley. Yalumba winery’s bush vine plantings are at least 35 years old. The wine production is certified sustainable and vegan. The Samuel’s Collection line is named after founder Samuel Smith and is reserved for special production lots. The translucent, violet, deep ruby hues develop thick wine tears due to slightly higher alcohol levels. Bright, round and juicy with floral notes, we are met by berries, violets and dried herbs in the bouquet. With its medium body, we would recommend pairing with herbed chicken        

Sam Kim in his Wine Orbit Reviews gave it 93 points. STOP PRESS: Montreal’s esteemed Selections Mondiales competition just recently awarded it a Gold Medal.  

2023 Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Bush Vine Grenache LCBO #531228, $21.95

We are all familiar with a hearty red wine blended with spices. It’s mulled wine, of course. Served heated with such spices as cinnamon and cloves, its origins actually go back to Roman times. A favourite during the Christmas holiday season, it’s perfect to warm us up and ward off the cold temperatures, especially when outside activities are the order of the day. Searching for that elusive perfect Christmas tree, skiing, skating, sledding, building a snowman, or just getting together with friends, a cup of mulled wine hits the spot once retreating inside. The aromas of spices and that warm feeling of holiday cheer all over can’t be beat.

While there are many recipes one can use to make one’s own mulled wine, in this age of convenience, a delicious, ready-to-serve version is available for purchase at your local LCBO outlet as a seasonal listing. Based on Spanish red wine and select spices, the shrink-wrapped graphics covering the 750 ml bottle highlight another favourite holiday icon, the ugly Christmas sweater. With the packaging replicating typical embroidered patterns, it’s the perfect holiday host/hostess gift, too.

May we suggest enjoying this holiday favourite while watching another holiday favourite, National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation movie. Sip cups of this mulled wine while laughing at the Griswold family’s holiday antics. Gingerbread cookies optional. Look out for the ugly sweaters worn by family goofball patriarch, Clark Griswold, played by Chevy Chase.  

The Ugly Mulled Wine LCBO #578021, $15.95

We have just returned from Spain’s capitol of Madrid and Castilla La Mancha winegrowing region south of the city.  The concentration of aristocratic buildings is most impressive. One of the world’s top museums, El Prado, is to Madrid what the Louvre is to Paris. It’s a must visit with its unparalleled collection of Spanish, as well as international, masterpieces. After a concentrated day of tourist activities, it’s time to enjoy local wines and nibble tapas into the night. Dare not miss seafood or meat paellas. Then there’s Jamon Iberico - ham Spanish style made from acorn-fed hogs. It’s a Madrid staple. And cheese? It’s Manchego, go, go, going, gone. It’s a firm, semi-hard cheese from La Mancha made exclusively from the milk of Manchega sheep.

But what wine to enjoy with these Spanish specialties? The most celebrated local grape is Cencibel, internationally known and sold as Tempranillo. The vast region of Castilla La Mancha is home to huge tracts of old vine plantings. These mature vines yield fruit of intensity and depth. Deep ruby in colour, the aromas of black cherries, hints of mocha and dark chocolate segue into velvety tannins that provide the base for flavours of berries and dark cherry, topped with hints of vanilla and clove. Medium to full bodied, the above-mentioned specialties would pair beautifully. The wine is El Tocador Old Vines Tempranillo widely available as a new continuous listing at the LCBO. At a retail of $11.95, it’s a super value. James Suckling gave it 91 points.    

2023 El Tocador Old Vines Tempranillo LCBO # 44192, $11.95

Yalumba winery’s Samuel’s Collection honours founder Samuel Smith. His spirit of independence and conviction to invest in the land and make great wine made it one of the Barossa Valley’s icon properties. With a history that goes back to the original settlement in Australia commencing in 1849, 100% Barossa fruit comes from its original home vineyards. Varying slightly from year to year, this blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon aims to stick close to a 50/50 blend. Sustainability is top of mind in all aspects of wine growing and production. The average vineyard age is 35 years. Forty-three accolades have been received internationally for its sustainability practices. But the real treat for Ontario customers is the additional bottle aging this 2019 vintage release has under its belt. Esteemed journalist James Suckling gave this summary: “Aromas of wild herbs, red and black fruit, suede and bark. Full bodied with velvety tannins. Rich black fruit on the palate with good intensity. Pleasantly straightforward.”  In addition, Sam Kim, editor of Wine Orbit gave it 93 points. It’s also vegan  and comes with screwcap closure. Enjoy with grilled lamb and a side of mushroom risotto to compliment and pick up on the wine’s wild herb and black fruit notes.     

2019 Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Barossa Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO #12999, $21.95

Sauvignon Blanc has found the ideal terroir to bring out its best characteristics along the coast of Chile in the Casablanca Valley. Located a mere 9 km inland from the Pacific Ocean, the Humboldt Current delivers consistent cool sea breezes. Matetic winery’s vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic. The brand name of the wine is EQ which stands for being in equilibrium with nature in all aspects of grape growing and wine making. Fermentation and aging in combination of stainless steel, concrete eggs and oak gives us a delicious, complex end result. Pale yellow with green hues, the nose is dominated by citrus and tropical aromas. The palate is vivid, fresh and concentrated with a lingering finish. Hailing from close to the ocean, seafood, naturally, would be the best companion for this wine. Seafood ceviche, tuna carpaccio, sushi with light sauces, oysters or scallops come to mind. Chile’s Descorchados wine guide scored it at 95 points.        

2023 Matetic EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc LCBO #10433, $18.95

Austria’s Burgenland region borders Hungary to the east and the Neusiedler Lake to the west. Its warm climate, called Pannonian, takes its name from the Roman designation for the vast Hungarian Plains, Pannonia. Burgenland is Austria’s red wine power house with hardly a planting of white grapes to be found. And the most important red grape is Blauer Zweigelt. It grows in most soil types and is not sensitive to frosts or illnesses. Grape yields are reliable and plentiful, dense and dark with its signature mellow cherry fruit. Lenz Moser is Austria’s most important winery with long term vineyard contracts in the cru village of Andau. With extended aging in large foudre barrels, this bottling carries a Reserve designation. Deep red with violet notes, cherry notes are underpinned by gentle smoky aromas. Soft tannins on the palate lead to a silky, harmonious, lengthy finish. Among  the many accolades this wine has garnered, Lenz Moser is particularly proud of its 2024 Gold Medal and Best of Show win at the Mundus Vini competition. Serve with BBQ grilled chicken, meatloaf, or our favourite, roast duck.   

2021 Lenz Moser Prestige Reserve Blauer Zweigelt LCBO # 45348, $19.95

As we head into the Thanksgiving long weekend, we all look forward to family gatherings and fellowship around the dinner table with a sumptuous spread of our favourite foods. While many of us take this for granted as we gather, let us not forget those less fortunate than ourselves. And let’s not just talk the talk, but do something tangible. Every community has a Food Bank. So make it your mission this Thanksgiving to drop off a hamper of select foods that can be distributed accordingly.

Roast turkey is the top choice for holiday tables. And the wine? RELAX Riesling, of course. What makes RELAX Riesling a great pairing is its ability to perfectly compliment the juiciness of the meat, whether dark or white, together with the herbed stuffing and cranberry dressing. The beautiful balance between crisp acidity and a hint of sweetness adds a delicious touch to the big bird while its minerality keeps your taste buds alert. 

Hailing from Germany, the ancestral homeland of the Riesling grape, it’s the number-one selling imported Riesling not just at the LCBO in Ontario, but also Canada.

RELAX Riesling 750 ml, LCBO #621888, $14.10 

Also ideal for bigger gatherings is RELAX Riesling 1.5 L, LCBO #30561, $26.95

Have a happy, memorable and delicious Thanksgiving and do give thanks.   

Gose, pronounced “Go Zeh” the lactic and salty specialty ale associated with the German cities of Goslar and Leipzig, has a chronicled history dating back more than a thousand years. But not so long ago, it was virtually extinct with the city of Leipzig, once the Gose epicenter, having had the political misfortune to end up behind the Iron Curtain and part of the Communist, anti-independent business German Democratic Republic from 1945 to 1989. Gose was known only to a shrinking base of locals and the odd beer tourist who made the trek to the few Leipzig pubs that still served the quirky specialty. Today, with interest sales of sour ales growing, “new-traditionalist” brewers in Germany, the U.S., Canada, and beyond, are recreating the style, generally with a nod towards a more “drinkable” palate. Original Ritterguts Gose is the real thing, the one example still made according to the traditional recipes—bold, sour, and funky, but with the elusive old-German qualities of balance and complexity. Thanks to entrepreneur and beer aficionado Tilo Jänichen for resurrecting the brand and making it available for export to select markets. Beer lovers in Ontario are fortunate to have Original Ritterguts Gose available for a limited time, so make your way to your favourite LCBO outlet and experience this very special brew.    

Original Ritterguts Gose 500 ml, LCBO# 49231, $4.85