Harry's Blog

Sauvignon Blanc has found the ideal terroir to bring out its best characteristics along the coast of Chile in the Casablanca Valley. Located a mere 9 km inland from the Pacific Ocean, the Humboldt Current delivers consistent cool sea breezes. Matetic winery’s vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic. The brand name of the wine is EQ which stands for being in equilibrium with nature in all aspects of grape growing and wine making. Fermentation and aging in combination of stainless steel, concrete eggs and oak gives us a delicious, complex end result. Pale yellow with green hues, the nose is dominated by citrus and tropical aromas. The palate is vivid, fresh and concentrated with a lingering finish. Hailing from close to the ocean, seafood, naturally, would be the best companion for this wine. Seafood ceviche, tuna carpaccio, sushi with light sauces, oysters or scallops come to mind. Chile’s Descorchados wine guide scored it at 95 points.        

2023 Matetic EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc LCBO #10433, $18.95

Austria’s Burgenland region borders Hungary to the east and the Neusiedler Lake to the west. Its warm climate, called Pannonian, takes its name from the Roman designation for the vast Hungarian Plains, Pannonia. Burgenland is Austria’s red wine power house with hardly a planting of white grapes to be found. And the most important red grape is Blauer Zweigelt. It grows in most soil types and is not sensitive to frosts or illnesses. Grape yields are reliable and plentiful, dense and dark with its signature mellow cherry fruit. Lenz Moser is Austria’s most important winery with long term vineyard contracts in the cru village of Andau. With extended aging in large foudre barrels, this bottling carries a Reserve designation. Deep red with violet notes, cherry notes are underpinned by gentle smoky aromas. Soft tannins on the palate lead to a silky, harmonious, lengthy finish. Among  the many accolades this wine has garnered, Lenz Moser is particularly proud of its 2024 Gold Medal and Best of Show win at the Mundus Vini competition. Serve with BBQ grilled chicken, meatloaf, or our favourite, roast duck.   

2021 Lenz Moser Prestige Reserve Blauer Zweigelt LCBO # 45348, $19.95

As we head into the Thanksgiving long weekend, we all look forward to family gatherings and fellowship around the dinner table with a sumptuous spread of our favourite foods. While many of us take this for granted as we gather, let us not forget those less fortunate than ourselves. And let’s not just talk the talk, but do something tangible. Every community has a Food Bank. So make it your mission this Thanksgiving to drop off a hamper of select foods that can be distributed accordingly.

Roast turkey is the top choice for holiday tables. And the wine? RELAX Riesling, of course. What makes RELAX Riesling a great pairing is its ability to perfectly compliment the juiciness of the meat, whether dark or white, together with the herbed stuffing and cranberry dressing. The beautiful balance between crisp acidity and a hint of sweetness adds a delicious touch to the big bird while its minerality keeps your taste buds alert. 

Hailing from Germany, the ancestral homeland of the Riesling grape, it’s the number-one selling imported Riesling not just at the LCBO in Ontario, but also Canada.

RELAX Riesling 750 ml, LCBO #621888, $14.10 

Also ideal for bigger gatherings is RELAX Riesling 1.5 L, LCBO #30561, $26.95

Have a happy, memorable and delicious Thanksgiving and do give thanks.   

Gose, pronounced “Go Zeh” the lactic and salty specialty ale associated with the German cities of Goslar and Leipzig, has a chronicled history dating back more than a thousand years. But not so long ago, it was virtually extinct with the city of Leipzig, once the Gose epicenter, having had the political misfortune to end up behind the Iron Curtain and part of the Communist, anti-independent business German Democratic Republic from 1945 to 1989. Gose was known only to a shrinking base of locals and the odd beer tourist who made the trek to the few Leipzig pubs that still served the quirky specialty. Today, with interest sales of sour ales growing, “new-traditionalist” brewers in Germany, the U.S., Canada, and beyond, are recreating the style, generally with a nod towards a more “drinkable” palate. Original Ritterguts Gose is the real thing, the one example still made according to the traditional recipes—bold, sour, and funky, but with the elusive old-German qualities of balance and complexity. Thanks to entrepreneur and beer aficionado Tilo Jänichen for resurrecting the brand and making it available for export to select markets. Beer lovers in Ontario are fortunate to have Original Ritterguts Gose available for a limited time, so make your way to your favourite LCBO outlet and experience this very special brew.    

Original Ritterguts Gose 500 ml, LCBO# 49231, $4.85

This is the euphoric cry that echoes through the fest halls when Oktoberfest revellers are called upon by the oompah band to lift and clink their filled steins and then yell, “ein Prosit der Gemütlichkeit” (a toast to friendliness and good cheer). The original Oktoberfest, celebrated first in 1810, and to this day the biggest in the world, takes place in Munich, Germany. The very same beer that must be brewed within the city limits of Munich is available for enjoyment, and purchase at your local LCBO outlet. It’s a seasonal release for a limited time only, so don’t hesitate to purchase a few extra bottles. At 6.3 % alc./vol., it’s stronger than most mainstream beers that clock in at the 5% range. Bright gold in colour with rich aromas of bread, it has a long citrus and dried hay accented finish. The Beverage Testing Institute gave it 93 points and an “Exceptional” rating. Visit your favourite local deli and pick up some sausages, buns, mustard and sauerkraut and celebrate your own family Oktoberfest.       

Hofbräu Oktoberfestbier LCBO # 85889, 500 ml $3.95 

This past May, I had the pleasure of visiting the fascinating Island of Sicily. While politically part of Italy, it’s almost a continent in itself located at the crossroads of the Mediterranean. Its vast coastline sports hundreds of sandy beaches while the interior has a remarkable range of landscapes. Ancient Greek ruins are a testament to a rich and storied history that spans several millennia. But we can’t not mention grape growing and wine making, a flourishing, major sector of the economy. While vast vineyards are found throughout the island, we want to concentrate on Mount Etna. This active volcano is THE most important and imposing geographic feature of Sicily. We missed a small eruption only a few days prior. The Cusumano family is headquartered in the town of Partinico on the northwest end of the island, close to Palermo. We were graciously hosted by Export Manager, Maria Leone. Mount Etna is where the excitement is these days. Over the past twenty years premium winemakers from around the world have been attracted to this lava-strewn landscape. Cusumano’s Alta Mora estate with three contradas, that is single vineyards, is located on the steep north slope of the volcano. Covered in black lava soil, it is not in the path of any lava flows. For white wine production, the  indigenous white Carricante grape dominates. Fermented solely in stainless steel to preserve the aromatics, citrus, minerals and green apple dominate. Mid weight in body, it has an almost Chardonnay-like feel about it with a complex, lingering finish..               

Since Sicily is surrounded by the Mediterranean, the obvious pairing would be your favourite seafood. Noted journalist James Suckling scored it 93 points.   

2022 Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC, LCBO #545103, $28.95

Fall is creeping up on us slowly, but surely. There’s a nip in the morning air. Dew covers the lawns, and especially car windshields, necessitating swishing the wipers. After the usual pre-Labour Day frenzy of buying supplies, gadgets and clothes, the kids are back in school. Get used to following school buses navigating through your neighborhoods past parents and grandparents making sure the kids get on board safely. Once the kids are tucked in for the night, mom and dad deserve to kick back and enjoy a decent glass of wine, probably now red as the temperatures have dropped.  

For an economical, tasty, full-bodied, round red, let’s do Portugal. Lisboa is one of the classic capital cities of Europe. It also lends its name to the wine growing region north of the city. Dramatic vineyards cover rolling hillsides varying in altitude from 70 to 450 meters above sea level. The San Sebastiao estate winery is located in the quaint town of Arruda in what locals call the “Enchanted Valley.” The soils are mainly clay-limestone based in a Mediterranean micro-climate. Gentle breezes emanating from the Atlantic Ocean moderate the otherwise hot summer temperatures. A blend of Syrah and local Tinta Roriz grapes, fermentation takes place only in stainless steel. Very fresh notes of plum and black fruits come through loud and clear, not masked by any wood notes associated with barrel aging. At $13.95 the value is exceptional. Serve with pasta dishes, light to medium strength cheeses or your favourite meat dish.

2022 San Sebastiao Lisboa Syrah Tinta Roriz, LCBO # 632869, $13.95

Most of us have heard the expression, “Seize The Day,” translated from the Latin, Carpe Diem. Basically, it means to urge someone to make the most of the present time and give little thought to the future. 

Every day is a new day, meal-wise, especially. Poutine is a Canadian classic. French fries are doused with ooey, gooey gravy and then smothered with cheese curds that are supposed to soften up, melt and fill the crevasses between the fries . What we’ve got here is a Canadian cornucopia of textures and flavours all coming together to party on one’s palate before swallowing. Potatoes with their starch, cheese curds with proteins that are obliged to squeak when bitten into, and gravy with a seductive viscosity coming from animal juices, do their tasty thing. An overall pleasant mouthfeel with all these components creates the concept of flavor, even umami. A Canadian dish deserves to be paired with a Canadian wine such as Gamay. Native to France’s Beaujolais region, it has successfully made the trip over the Atlantic and is now a staple of red wine production in the Niagara Peninsula; specifically, the Short Hills Bench appellation, home to Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery. The warm location of south-facing slopes further ensure a full ripening of the Gamay grape. The day-to-night temperature shifts of up to 13 degrees Celsius contribute to the wine’s freshness and crispness. The medium body plus red berry and blueberry notes finish with a gentle spiciness on the palate. Chill for half an hour in the fridge and enjoy this delicious routine poutine pairing.        

2023 Henry of Pelham Estate The Smith & Smith Gamay, LCBO # 19903, $21.95 

The River Lot starts as a spring in the Languedoc Roussillon region of south-central France. Flowing 500 km northwest, it eventually becomes a wide, meandering, slow river wending its way and eventually emptying into the Garonne River a hundred km south of Bordeaux. Looping like a dizzy python, it flows past imposing castles and diverse, hilly outcroppings of limestone that act as natural heat reservoirs. Nothing seems to disturb the tranquility of this serenely wild, sparsely populated region. The area west of Cahors for about fifty km on both sides of the river is the original home of the Malbec grape. The appellation is Cahors, taking its name after the medieval city of the same name. There are forty-five wine-growing villages in the Cahors appellation. Starting in the Middle Ages, and due to its intense color, it was called the “black wine.” It also found its way into the wines of other regions for the purpose of “beefing up” the colour and providing more weight on the palate. Cahors has 4,600 hectares of Malbec, miniscule compared to the 58,000 hectares grown there prior to being wiped out in the 1860s by that pesky, no-holds-barred, and totally destructive aphid called phylloxera. All along the banks of the River Lot one will encounter walnut and fruit trees. The vineyards are neatly planted on three alluvial terraces at various elevations above the river’s banks. An increasing number of Cahors producers are now including the Malbec varietal on the label. Merlot and Tannat are also grown here and are allowed to make up to thirty percent of the blend. 

A great food wine, Cahors matches a cornucopia of regional delicacies including truffles, fois gras, grilled Caussnard lamb and black bass caught freshly out of the Lot river, and the regional cheese specialty, Rocamadour. Since we do not have the luxury of flying to France, have your neighborhood gourmet grocer help you select and substitute local equivalent dishes from its own repertoire of products.   

French wine wizard and merchant extraordinaire, Gérard Betrand, has tapped into Cahors and is offering it to wine lovers around the world including, fortunately, LCBO Vintages. James Suckling scored it 90 points.

2021 Gérard Betrand Héritage Cahors Malbec LCBO #43536, $21.95.

The history behind this famous pre-midday cocktail is much disputed. The most plausible link points to bartender Frank Meier who is supposed to have created it at the Hotel Ritz in Paris. The Herres winery has come to the rescue and it’s available on a continuous basis at your favourite LCBO location. Mimosa lovers may enjoy this yummy imported sparkling cocktail pre-mixed. It’s no longer necessary to go through the time-consuming exercise of blending orange juice and sparkling wine hoping to hit the right combination of flavour and sparkle. The effervescence brings a liveliness as well as balance to the citrus elements. Enjoy, whenever the occasion calls, not just for brunch but also on the patio or deck during these sultry August days of summer.

Romeo Mimosa LCBO 14388, $12.95     

The Viognier grape is responsible for some of the most expensive white wines in France. At home on the Rhône River Valley, we are talking about Chateau Grillet with its own appellation covering only 3.5 hectares. Yalumba Winery, based in Australia’s Barossa Valley, took the initiative over 40 year ago to plant this varietal in the southern hemisphere.

Yalumba is considered to be a leader in growing this varietal in the New World, specifically in the neighboring Eden Valley with its higher, cooler elevations. The vineyards are farmed and certified sustainable.  Fermentation takes place spontaneously with wild yeasts. No commercial strains here. Vegan friendly, it is bottled under their Y Series, a collection of iconic classic varietals produced in limited quantities. We are fortunate to have their Y Series Viognier available on LCBO shelves on a continuous basis.  With a straw colour and medium-bodied texture, it bursts with heady aromas of melon, honeysuckle and white flowers. Aging on the lees gives us a complex tasting palate with a lingering, silky finish.  While delicious to be enjoyed as an aperitif, we can think of nothing better on these hot, sultry summer days or evenings than to pair it with a chilled, rich seafood salad  And don’t skimp on the lobster or crabmeat!

2023 Yalumba Y Series Viognier LCBO #470062, $13.95

France is home to the huge Rhône wine growing region. Its sloped vineyards produce gargantuan quantities of primarily red wine. They straddle both banks of the mighty Rhône river as it makes its way to the Mediterranean sea. Within the smaller regional appellation of Côtes du Rhône Villages, 22 villages are allowed to be specifically identified if 100% of the production comes from within that village’s boudaries. Cairanne is one of those villages one will find at the top of ”Villages” ranking nestled in the heart of the southern Rhone valley. The exceptional plateau-based terroir sports pebbles and sandy soils giving us well balanced, age worthy wines.  A regional phenomenon is the Mistral, a wind that rushes down the Rhône River valley and provides a welcoming cooling effect in this otherwise extremely hot climate.

Vidal-Fleury is a highly respected regional producer. Founded in 1781, it is the oldest continuously operating winery in the Rhône Valley. This wine is a blend of the local favourite varieties of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. However, Grenache dominates most aspects of this wine - dark chocolate, plum and a cherry nose finishing with pepper. There is great structure on the palate crowned by a smooth, firm length due to the well integrated tannins. 

May be aged further for 5-7 years. Rare red meats simply roasted are the perfect match. But let’s be more adventurous and go for a Provençal lamb stew. Typical herbs used in Provençal cooking such as thyme, rosemary, oregano and basil provide the perfect foil to this wine’s peppery notes..

Cheese wise, let’s go local pairing this Cairanne village production with Oka cheese from Québec.   

2022 J .Vidal-Fleury Cairanne LCBO #43528, $24.95