Harry's Blog

Grenache is the most widely planted red grape in France’s sunny southern Rhône region. In Spain it’s called Garnacha, their widely planted work-horse red. It tends to be planted as low slung, free standing bush vines easily cultivated and pruned from all directions. No wonder it has found the perfect overseas home down under in Australia’s premium warm climate Barossa Valley. Yalumba winery’s bush vine plantings are at least 35 years old. The wine production is certified sustainable and vegan. The Samuel’s Collection line is named after founder Samuel Smith and is reserved for special production lots. The translucent, violet, deep ruby hues develop thick wine tears due to slightly higher alcohol levels. Bright, round and juicy with floral notes, we are met by berries, violets and dried herbs in the bouquet. With its medium body, we would recommend pairing with herbed chicken        

Sam Kim in his Wine Orbit Reviews gave it 93 points. STOP PRESS: Montreal’s esteemed Selections Mondiales competition just recently awarded it a Gold Medal.  

2023 Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Bush Vine Grenache LCBO #531228, $21.95

We are all familiar with a hearty red wine blended with spices. It’s mulled wine, of course. Served heated with such spices as cinnamon and cloves, its origins actually go back to Roman times. A favourite during the Christmas holiday season, it’s perfect to warm us up and ward off the cold temperatures, especially when outside activities are the order of the day. Searching for that elusive perfect Christmas tree, skiing, skating, sledding, building a snowman, or just getting together with friends, a cup of mulled wine hits the spot once retreating inside. The aromas of spices and that warm feeling of holiday cheer all over can’t be beat.

While there are many recipes one can use to make one’s own mulled wine, in this age of convenience, a delicious, ready-to-serve version is available for purchase at your local LCBO outlet as a seasonal listing. Based on Spanish red wine and select spices, the shrink-wrapped graphics covering the 750 ml bottle highlight another favourite holiday icon, the ugly Christmas sweater. With the packaging replicating typical embroidered patterns, it’s the perfect holiday host/hostess gift, too.

May we suggest enjoying this holiday favourite while watching another holiday favourite, National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation movie. Sip cups of this mulled wine while laughing at the Griswold family’s holiday antics. Gingerbread cookies optional. Look out for the ugly sweaters worn by family goofball patriarch, Clark Griswold, played by Chevy Chase.  

The Ugly Mulled Wine LCBO #578021, $15.95

We have just returned from Spain’s capitol of Madrid and Castilla La Mancha winegrowing region south of the city.  The concentration of aristocratic buildings is most impressive. One of the world’s top museums, El Prado, is to Madrid what the Louvre is to Paris. It’s a must visit with its unparalleled collection of Spanish, as well as international, masterpieces. After a concentrated day of tourist activities, it’s time to enjoy local wines and nibble tapas into the night. Dare not miss seafood or meat paellas. Then there’s Jamon Iberico - ham Spanish style made from acorn-fed hogs. It’s a Madrid staple. And cheese? It’s Manchego, go, go, going, gone. It’s a firm, semi-hard cheese from La Mancha made exclusively from the milk of Manchega sheep.

But what wine to enjoy with these Spanish specialties? The most celebrated local grape is Cencibel, internationally known and sold as Tempranillo. The vast region of Castilla La Mancha is home to huge tracts of old vine plantings. These mature vines yield fruit of intensity and depth. Deep ruby in colour, the aromas of black cherries, hints of mocha and dark chocolate segue into velvety tannins that provide the base for flavours of berries and dark cherry, topped with hints of vanilla and clove. Medium to full bodied, the above-mentioned specialties would pair beautifully. The wine is El Tocador Old Vines Tempranillo widely available as a new continuous listing at the LCBO. At a retail of $11.95, it’s a super value. James Suckling gave it 91 points.    

2023 El Tocador Old Vines Tempranillo LCBO # 44192, $11.95

Yalumba winery’s Samuel’s Collection honours founder Samuel Smith. His spirit of independence and conviction to invest in the land and make great wine made it one of the Barossa Valley’s icon properties. With a history that goes back to the original settlement in Australia commencing in 1849, 100% Barossa fruit comes from its original home vineyards. Varying slightly from year to year, this blend of Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon aims to stick close to a 50/50 blend. Sustainability is top of mind in all aspects of wine growing and production. The average vineyard age is 35 years. Forty-three accolades have been received internationally for its sustainability practices. But the real treat for Ontario customers is the additional bottle aging this 2019 vintage release has under its belt. Esteemed journalist James Suckling gave this summary: “Aromas of wild herbs, red and black fruit, suede and bark. Full bodied with velvety tannins. Rich black fruit on the palate with good intensity. Pleasantly straightforward.”  In addition, Sam Kim, editor of Wine Orbit gave it 93 points. It’s also vegan  and comes with screwcap closure. Enjoy with grilled lamb and a side of mushroom risotto to compliment and pick up on the wine’s wild herb and black fruit notes.     

2019 Yalumba Samuel’s Collection Barossa Shiraz/Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO #12999, $21.95

Sauvignon Blanc has found the ideal terroir to bring out its best characteristics along the coast of Chile in the Casablanca Valley. Located a mere 9 km inland from the Pacific Ocean, the Humboldt Current delivers consistent cool sea breezes. Matetic winery’s vineyards are certified organic and biodynamic. The brand name of the wine is EQ which stands for being in equilibrium with nature in all aspects of grape growing and wine making. Fermentation and aging in combination of stainless steel, concrete eggs and oak gives us a delicious, complex end result. Pale yellow with green hues, the nose is dominated by citrus and tropical aromas. The palate is vivid, fresh and concentrated with a lingering finish. Hailing from close to the ocean, seafood, naturally, would be the best companion for this wine. Seafood ceviche, tuna carpaccio, sushi with light sauces, oysters or scallops come to mind. Chile’s Descorchados wine guide scored it at 95 points.        

2023 Matetic EQ Coastal Sauvignon Blanc LCBO #10433, $18.95

Austria’s Burgenland region borders Hungary to the east and the Neusiedler Lake to the west. Its warm climate, called Pannonian, takes its name from the Roman designation for the vast Hungarian Plains, Pannonia. Burgenland is Austria’s red wine power house with hardly a planting of white grapes to be found. And the most important red grape is Blauer Zweigelt. It grows in most soil types and is not sensitive to frosts or illnesses. Grape yields are reliable and plentiful, dense and dark with its signature mellow cherry fruit. Lenz Moser is Austria’s most important winery with long term vineyard contracts in the cru village of Andau. With extended aging in large foudre barrels, this bottling carries a Reserve designation. Deep red with violet notes, cherry notes are underpinned by gentle smoky aromas. Soft tannins on the palate lead to a silky, harmonious, lengthy finish. Among  the many accolades this wine has garnered, Lenz Moser is particularly proud of its 2024 Gold Medal and Best of Show win at the Mundus Vini competition. Serve with BBQ grilled chicken, meatloaf, or our favourite, roast duck.   

2021 Lenz Moser Prestige Reserve Blauer Zweigelt LCBO # 45348, $19.95

As we head into the Thanksgiving long weekend, we all look forward to family gatherings and fellowship around the dinner table with a sumptuous spread of our favourite foods. While many of us take this for granted as we gather, let us not forget those less fortunate than ourselves. And let’s not just talk the talk, but do something tangible. Every community has a Food Bank. So make it your mission this Thanksgiving to drop off a hamper of select foods that can be distributed accordingly.

Roast turkey is the top choice for holiday tables. And the wine? RELAX Riesling, of course. What makes RELAX Riesling a great pairing is its ability to perfectly compliment the juiciness of the meat, whether dark or white, together with the herbed stuffing and cranberry dressing. The beautiful balance between crisp acidity and a hint of sweetness adds a delicious touch to the big bird while its minerality keeps your taste buds alert. 

Hailing from Germany, the ancestral homeland of the Riesling grape, it’s the number-one selling imported Riesling not just at the LCBO in Ontario, but also Canada.

RELAX Riesling 750 ml, LCBO #621888, $14.10 

Also ideal for bigger gatherings is RELAX Riesling 1.5 L, LCBO #30561, $26.95

Have a happy, memorable and delicious Thanksgiving and do give thanks.   

Gose, pronounced “Go Zeh” the lactic and salty specialty ale associated with the German cities of Goslar and Leipzig, has a chronicled history dating back more than a thousand years. But not so long ago, it was virtually extinct with the city of Leipzig, once the Gose epicenter, having had the political misfortune to end up behind the Iron Curtain and part of the Communist, anti-independent business German Democratic Republic from 1945 to 1989. Gose was known only to a shrinking base of locals and the odd beer tourist who made the trek to the few Leipzig pubs that still served the quirky specialty. Today, with interest sales of sour ales growing, “new-traditionalist” brewers in Germany, the U.S., Canada, and beyond, are recreating the style, generally with a nod towards a more “drinkable” palate. Original Ritterguts Gose is the real thing, the one example still made according to the traditional recipes—bold, sour, and funky, but with the elusive old-German qualities of balance and complexity. Thanks to entrepreneur and beer aficionado Tilo Jänichen for resurrecting the brand and making it available for export to select markets. Beer lovers in Ontario are fortunate to have Original Ritterguts Gose available for a limited time, so make your way to your favourite LCBO outlet and experience this very special brew.    

Original Ritterguts Gose 500 ml, LCBO# 49231, $4.85

This is the euphoric cry that echoes through the fest halls when Oktoberfest revellers are called upon by the oompah band to lift and clink their filled steins and then yell, “ein Prosit der Gemütlichkeit” (a toast to friendliness and good cheer). The original Oktoberfest, celebrated first in 1810, and to this day the biggest in the world, takes place in Munich, Germany. The very same beer that must be brewed within the city limits of Munich is available for enjoyment, and purchase at your local LCBO outlet. It’s a seasonal release for a limited time only, so don’t hesitate to purchase a few extra bottles. At 6.3 % alc./vol., it’s stronger than most mainstream beers that clock in at the 5% range. Bright gold in colour with rich aromas of bread, it has a long citrus and dried hay accented finish. The Beverage Testing Institute gave it 93 points and an “Exceptional” rating. Visit your favourite local deli and pick up some sausages, buns, mustard and sauerkraut and celebrate your own family Oktoberfest.       

Hofbräu Oktoberfestbier LCBO # 85889, 500 ml $3.95 

This past May, I had the pleasure of visiting the fascinating Island of Sicily. While politically part of Italy, it’s almost a continent in itself located at the crossroads of the Mediterranean. Its vast coastline sports hundreds of sandy beaches while the interior has a remarkable range of landscapes. Ancient Greek ruins are a testament to a rich and storied history that spans several millennia. But we can’t not mention grape growing and wine making, a flourishing, major sector of the economy. While vast vineyards are found throughout the island, we want to concentrate on Mount Etna. This active volcano is THE most important and imposing geographic feature of Sicily. We missed a small eruption only a few days prior. The Cusumano family is headquartered in the town of Partinico on the northwest end of the island, close to Palermo. We were graciously hosted by Export Manager, Maria Leone. Mount Etna is where the excitement is these days. Over the past twenty years premium winemakers from around the world have been attracted to this lava-strewn landscape. Cusumano’s Alta Mora estate with three contradas, that is single vineyards, is located on the steep north slope of the volcano. Covered in black lava soil, it is not in the path of any lava flows. For white wine production, the  indigenous white Carricante grape dominates. Fermented solely in stainless steel to preserve the aromatics, citrus, minerals and green apple dominate. Mid weight in body, it has an almost Chardonnay-like feel about it with a complex, lingering finish..               

Since Sicily is surrounded by the Mediterranean, the obvious pairing would be your favourite seafood. Noted journalist James Suckling scored it 93 points.   

2022 Alta Mora Etna Bianco DOC, LCBO #545103, $28.95

Fall is creeping up on us slowly, but surely. There’s a nip in the morning air. Dew covers the lawns, and especially car windshields, necessitating swishing the wipers. After the usual pre-Labour Day frenzy of buying supplies, gadgets and clothes, the kids are back in school. Get used to following school buses navigating through your neighborhoods past parents and grandparents making sure the kids get on board safely. Once the kids are tucked in for the night, mom and dad deserve to kick back and enjoy a decent glass of wine, probably now red as the temperatures have dropped.  

For an economical, tasty, full-bodied, round red, let’s do Portugal. Lisboa is one of the classic capital cities of Europe. It also lends its name to the wine growing region north of the city. Dramatic vineyards cover rolling hillsides varying in altitude from 70 to 450 meters above sea level. The San Sebastiao estate winery is located in the quaint town of Arruda in what locals call the “Enchanted Valley.” The soils are mainly clay-limestone based in a Mediterranean micro-climate. Gentle breezes emanating from the Atlantic Ocean moderate the otherwise hot summer temperatures. A blend of Syrah and local Tinta Roriz grapes, fermentation takes place only in stainless steel. Very fresh notes of plum and black fruits come through loud and clear, not masked by any wood notes associated with barrel aging. At $13.95 the value is exceptional. Serve with pasta dishes, light to medium strength cheeses or your favourite meat dish.

2022 San Sebastiao Lisboa Syrah Tinta Roriz, LCBO # 632869, $13.95

Most of us have heard the expression, “Seize The Day,” translated from the Latin, Carpe Diem. Basically, it means to urge someone to make the most of the present time and give little thought to the future. 

Every day is a new day, meal-wise, especially. Poutine is a Canadian classic. French fries are doused with ooey, gooey gravy and then smothered with cheese curds that are supposed to soften up, melt and fill the crevasses between the fries . What we’ve got here is a Canadian cornucopia of textures and flavours all coming together to party on one’s palate before swallowing. Potatoes with their starch, cheese curds with proteins that are obliged to squeak when bitten into, and gravy with a seductive viscosity coming from animal juices, do their tasty thing. An overall pleasant mouthfeel with all these components creates the concept of flavor, even umami. A Canadian dish deserves to be paired with a Canadian wine such as Gamay. Native to France’s Beaujolais region, it has successfully made the trip over the Atlantic and is now a staple of red wine production in the Niagara Peninsula; specifically, the Short Hills Bench appellation, home to Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery. The warm location of south-facing slopes further ensure a full ripening of the Gamay grape. The day-to-night temperature shifts of up to 13 degrees Celsius contribute to the wine’s freshness and crispness. The medium body plus red berry and blueberry notes finish with a gentle spiciness on the palate. Chill for half an hour in the fridge and enjoy this delicious routine poutine pairing.        

2023 Henry of Pelham Estate The Smith & Smith Gamay, LCBO # 19903, $21.95