Harry's Blog

Riesling is one of the world’s greatest noble grape varieties. The first recorded planting of this grape took place in the village of Hochheim, Germany, on March 13, 1435. Located on a gentle sloping hillside facing the Main River, just before it flows into the mighty Rhine, Riesling has been planted there continuously ever since. The Domdechant Werner Estate, located in Hochheim, has been in family ownership since 1780 and Riesling is the name of the game on this property. A blend of different vineyard sites in the village of Hochheim, this estate-bottled Riesling is classified as “trocken,” meaning, dry, in German. At the London, England International Wine Challenge this producer was honoured the “White Winemaker of the Year.” Doesn’t get much better than that! While dry in taste, we are greeted with an array of tropical fruit aromas and flavours and is balanced by a refreshing acidity, a hallmark of great Riesling. So very versatile, it will match perfectly with seafood, fish, light meats and cheeses. Then again, it’s the quintessential quaffer on its own. Swirl, sniff, sip. Repeat. Don’t be afraid to lay down a few bottles as it develops more complexity over the next 3-5 years. It was awarded a Gold Medal in the esteemed 2023 European Mundus Vini wine competition.

 2022 Domdechant Werner Hochheimer Riesling Trocken LCBO #25710, $19.95

The world’s most popular white wine is produced from the Chardonnay grape. It is named after an old Gallic village in the Mâcon Region of Burgundy called Cardonacum, a Latin word meaning “place full of thistles” – Chardon in French. William Fèvre was an icon French Burgundy producer famous for his Chablis wines that must be produced exclusively from the Chardonnay grape. He set up a French/Chilean joint venture winery bearing the family name in Chile more than 25 years ago. They imported Chardonnay rootstock from his own vineyards in Chablis. The name given to this line of Chardonnay, Espino, refers to vines grown in and around nettles and briars which border the property. When William passed away a number of years ago, the winery and vineyards reverted to Chilean ownership. Fermented bone dry with less than 2 gm/l of residual sugar, it is aged exclusively in stainless steel. With subtle hints of almond, additional notes of citrus and stone fruits come through in the bouquet. Serve with scallops or baked salmon. At this time of year, these seafoods, caught in the cold waters off the coast of Chile, are probably what’s available in the seafood sections of Canadian supermarkets. A perfect land and sea pairing

2023 Casa Fèvre Espino Reserva Especial Chardonnay LCBO # 350058, $16.95

Real Companhia Velha is the oldest wine company in Portugal operating without interruption since 1756. Based in the famous Douro River valley, this unique region is characterized by a landscape of breathtaking beauty with steep vineyards planted on traditional terraces called patamares. The Douro valley is an extremely rugged terrain, bordered by mountain ranges to the south and west and plateaus to the north and east. The climate is characterized by cold, rainy winters, followed by very hot, dry summers. While initial wine production was based on fortified Port wines, nowadays there is a significant table wine production. The transition was quite seamless since the same varieties of Touriga National, Tinta Barroca, Touriga Franca and Tinta Roriz, used in Port, are ideal for quality red wine production. Evel, one of Portugal’s top brands, trademarked in 1913, is a blend of these very same varieties. Eight to ten months of aging in French barriques have imparted more structure and aging ability to the wine. Bright with a deep ruby ​​color, notes of very ripe fruits, complex herbal nuances typical of the region, combine with light touches of vanilla stemming from the aging in wood. A softness on the palate, with excellent structure and gentle tannins, provides a fruit-driven, persistent finish. The retail price of $14.95 is most attractive providing complexity at everyday affordability. Asdo is the Portuguese word for roast or barbeque. Need we say more.

2021 Evel Douro Tinto LCBO # 190694, $14.95

Think of Pinot Noir as the little black dress of wines. It pairs with just about anything, from soft cheeses such as Brie or Camembert to pasta with red sauces, or raspberry mousse cake. With its versatility, it can suit just about any occasion. Lake Sonoma is a key producer of cool climate California Pinot Noir. With its Sonoma Coast appellation, grapes are sourced from cooler vineyard sites, primarily in the Carneros area. Bordering San Pablo Bay, a northernmost  extension of San Francisco Bay, cool breezes and morning fogs moderate the temperatures throughout the gently rolling hills giving it a micro-climate that mimics France’s Burgundy region fairly closely. Don’t be surprised to see dairy cattle grazing in pastures surrounded by vineyards. And let’s not forget those four-legged lawn mowers, sheep - Carneros in Spanish. Berry fruits combined with a pleasant earthiness and spicy notes give us a textbook Pinot Noir à la California. If you are ever in the neighborhood, make sure to check out the well-established local artisanal cheese scene.           

 2022 Lake Sonoma Pinot Noir LCBO# 39671, $32.95.

Rosé wines are no longer for seasonal summer enjoyment but are enjoyed year round in copious quantities. What’s not to love about the brilliant pink colour, especially as we celebrate Valentine’s Day. Gérard Bertrand has played a major role in expanding awareness and demand for rosé wines the world over. His Côtes des Roses Rosé has become the benchmark for dry rosés, long a staple of the Mediterranean coastline’s wine and food culture. Demand shows no sign of slowing down. The Côtes des Roses bottle is iconic with its rose pattern incorporated in the glass base. This is not just another pretty bottle. Brilliant pink, the bouquet serenades us with a medley of summer fruits underpinned by gentle, seductive grapefruit notes. On the palate we encounter a very fresh yet complex mouth filling cornucopia of flavour. Enjoy on its own or with favourite Valentine inspired dishes. Raise your glasses - a toast to you and your loved one(s)!

Gérard Bertrand Côtes Des Roses Rosé LCBO # 373985, $19.95

As our Canadian winter lingers on, we tend to consume heartier comfort foods. And our wine consumption also points to fuller-bodied, richer red wines. Chock full of sunshine and taste, this wine hails from Italy’s huge, a continent in itself, Mediterranean island of Sicily. The Cusumano family is one of Sicily’s most respected benchmark producers. With more than 500 hectares planted to the vine, they put Sicilian winemaking on the map by crafting wines that reflect local viticultural traditions but also have wide international appeal. Nero d’Avola is the island’s classic, quintessential red. Translated as the “black grape of Avola,” it thrives in Sicily’s hot, arid climate. Robust and rustic, we are met with a range of dark fruit notes, spices and coffee in the bouquet. On the palate, it’s dry with flavours of cocoa, plum and cherry.  Nicely balanced, it finishes with smooth tannins and beckons to be paired with a variety of rich, meaty, stick-to-your-ribs dishes such as beef stew. If you are vegetarian, there are lots of “faux stew” recipes available, made with protein rich black lentils and shitake mushrooms.     

2022 Cusumano Nero D’Avola DOC Sicily LCBO #143164, $12.20 (till Feb. 15 with HST savings, regular price $13.95) 

While the heading of this blog, with its taxi or Uber reference is meant to poke a bit of fun, the cab we are referring to is none other than the grape, Cabernet Sauvignon. In the wine trade, in our wine speak, we simply call it “Cab.” or “Cab Sauv.” On another note, the term cab originally derives from cabriolet, a two-wheeled, one-horse carriage let out for hire.

Cabernet Sauvignon remains the leading noble red grape variety recognized as producing elegant, characterful, age worthy wines. Originating from Bordeaux France, it is the number one, most prized premium red wine planted around the world, and here specifically, in California. North of Napa and Sonoma, Lake County, in the shadow of Mt. Konocti, an extinct volcano, has built up a reputation for its fine, affordable Cabernet Sauvignons. The Shannon Family, with their base here, has been a local ranching fixture for several generations. In the mid nineties, they identified prime locations, planted vineyards and began making wine. Going forward from 2022, their vineyards are now certified organic and sustainable. While the appellation is Lake County, all of the fruit comes from three estate-owned higher elevation vineyards located in the High Valley, Red Hills and Big Valley sub-appellations. Gentle, smoky oak aromas start us off. Seductive, mouth-filling, dark berry fruit flavours are followed by notes of pepper and spice leading to a lengthy, satisfying finish marked by hints of cedar and smoky oak. A soft grip of tannins in the finish wraps up this noble yet very approachable Cabernet Sauvignon.

 As cattle ranchers, in addition to producing wine, the Shannon family’s recommended pairing would be, no surprise here, braised beef short ribs.   

 2022 Shannon Ridge High Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO#16182, $21.70,(save the HST until Feb. 15th)

Bordeaux Blend Beckons

The expression Bordeaux Blend refers to producing a wine that is made up of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The ancestral home of these grape varieties is none other than France’s premium wine region, Bordeaux. New World winemakers have duplicated this wine style successfully by growing the aforementioned varieties in their local vineyards. Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery, based in the Niagara Peninsula, is one of Canada’s original estate wineries. Cabernets and Merlot have been part of their offering since its founding. “The School House” wording is prominently included on the bottle’s front label. It refers to an old building on the winery site that served as a school house generations ago. Also, the winery founders, Paul and Bobbi Speck, ran a small private school in Toronto prior to getting into the wine business.  

Deep ruby in colour, the bouquet is dominated with black currant aromas, followed by oak and pepper notes. On the palate, we encounter balance and structure with underpinning tannins and dark fruit nuances. Decanting before serving would allow additional aeration of the wine, enhancing its complexity and enjoyment. A Terriyaki steak matching would bring out the complexities of the wine even more. The 2024 Canadian National Wine Awards gave this wine 90 points.        

 2020 Henry of Pelham “The School House” Cabernet/Merlot LCBO# 395855, $24.80 (save the GST, until Feb.15) 

To behold means to see or observe a thing or person, especially a remarkable or impressive one. Take a bottle of Beloki Spanish red wine. What’s not to admire! Let’s look further. The Rioja region in central Spain is the country’s undisputed premium red wine growing region based on the Tempranillo grape. While respecting long held traditions, Beloki is produced in a fresher, more immediate drinking style. Grapes are hand picked in small batches from forty-year-old vines grown in a Mediterranean climate with Atlantic influences. Fermentation is followed by 12 months aging in French and American oak. The colour is bright ruby. On the nose we receive hints of red berries, vanilla and spices. The long, lingering finish is balanced with smooth tannins. 

Lamb is a match made in heaven for Rioja wines like Beloki whether simply roasted or as juicy lamb chops. The delicacy of the meat and smoothness of the wine are an unbeatable combination. Wine & Spirits magazine scored it 91 points. 

2019 Beloki Rioja Crianza LCBO # 33520, $13.90 (save the GST, regular price $15.95)

The term Rhône Ranger refers to California winemakers taking a different tack. Instead of the dominant production of wines from the traditional Bordeaux and Burgundy grapes, they look to the varietals common to the Rhône Valley of Southern France. Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault instead of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. One of the self-proclaimed leaders of the group was none other than against-the-stream, enfant terrible winemaker Randall Grahm and his Bonny Doon Vineyard.  

Ever the comedian, the wine labels and brands he created poke fun, but the contents always demonstrate serious winemaking. Le Cigare Volant, his French style red Rhône blend, translates as flying saucer. It refers to an ordinance passed by the town council of the famous wine village Chateauneuf-du-Pape in 1954 that cigare volants were prohibited from landing in their vineyards. This occurred at a time when the western world was obsessed with reports of extraterrestrials and spaceships. No sightings were ever recorded but it still had humankind on edge. The label contains all kinds of quirky comments. Look for them and get a chuckle. For example, “Ce n’est pas un cigare.” This is not a cigar.

 Le Cigare Volant is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Petite Sirah grapes sourced from premium vineyard sites located along California’s Central Coast. Fermentation took place in stainless steel with untoasted oak added to aid in texture and colour stability. Bottling of this 2022 vintage took place the following summer.

Drinking beautifully now, it can be aged for another five years. Start the New Year by pairing Le Cigare Volant with a rare-to-medium rare flank steak.         

2022 Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Volant LCBO #18516, $19.10 (save the GST, regular price $21.95)

There’s an unbreakable bond between top quality sparkling wines and end-of-year celebrations. And then, as a further testimonial, throw in a Platinum medal from the 2024 Wine Align National Wine Awards. We’re talking about Henry of Pelham’s Cuvée Catharine Brut Rosé. Produced by the time-honoured, traditional, in-the-bottle secondary fermentation as is practiced in the Champagne Region of France, the results are nothing less than spectacular. Enjoy this cuvée of pink bubbles before, during or after midnight on December 31^st. Or, it’s a great partner with brunch on the first day of January. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and aged in the bottle for up to 24 months, it exhibits great balance with lingering flavours of red berry fruits and apple notes. In addition to Limited Time Offer and HST savings, for every bottle purchased you will receive an extra 100 Aeroplan Bonus Points. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!

Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut LCBO #217505, $26.95

St.Nicholas, the third century Bishop of Myra in what is now modern Turkey, was persecuted and imprisoned for his convictions. The story goes that he rescued three young women from abuse and punishment by their captors by providing three bags of gold. Out of the selfless act of kindness grew the Santa Claus legend. While North Americans look to Santa or Jolly Old St. Nick, as he is often referred to, Europeans start the Christmas season on Dec. 6, St. Nicholas Day, by giving small gifts to the nice children and a proverbial peace of coal, if one can even be found, to the naughty ones. And then there is Christmas Eve or Day, when the real gift-giving takes place in earnest together with family, supplemented with copious amounts of food, and drink, in moderation.

For larger family holiday gatherings, instead of buying several bottles of wine with the pain of opening and pouring, why not go the convenient, economical Bag-in-a-Box (BIB) route. Radio Boka Tempranillo 3 L BIB red, containing the equivalent of 4 - 750 ml bottles from the Valencia region of Spain, is one of the best selling wines at the LCBO in this format. The bouquet and medium body evoke notes of dark fruits and berries with well-integrated, smooth tannins. The airtight bag and pouring spout technology keep the air out of the wine and fresh for weeks. Prime rib pairing? You betcha! 

Radio Boka Tempranillo 3 Liter BIB LCBO # 491118, $37.50 (includes current HST savings)