Harry's Blog

What a wonderful month May is! It bridges the end of the colder months with warmer weather, greening of nature, optimism and looking forward to summer. The first of May, by coincidence, refers to a traditional spring festival that is a national holiday in most of European countries. It is also International Workers’ Day honouring labour movements not unlike Labour Day celebrated in North America on the first Monday of September. As well, “mayday” (one word) repeated three times is the international radio distress signal for urgent life-threatening emergencies. It has nothing to do with the word “may.” It is derived from the French term m’aider (“help me”).     

On May 10^th this year, we get to honour our mothers with Mother’s Day. First celebrated in 1908, this non-statutory holiday should be statutory given the sacrifices moms have made. After a relentless campaign, American President Woodrow Wilson signed a proclamation in 1914 establishing the second Sunday in May as Mother’s Day. It soon took root in Canada too. To help celebrate, may we recommend opening a chilled bottle of Romeo Peach Bellini. This ready-to-drink, refreshing sparkling wine is sweet, yet beautifully balanced with natural peach fruit pulp. The natural fruit flavours plus low alcohol at only 5.9%  alc./vol. pair perfectly with light appetizers, or savour on its own as an aperitif. Till May 23, collect 50 Aeroplan Bonus Points per bottle purchased.

Romeo Peach Bellini 750 ml, LCBO #485086, $13.00

Assemblage is a French term for the important operation in the wine production process in which different lots will be assembled to make the final blend. The goal is to attain a final result that is greater than the sum of its parts. This indispensable part of the winemaking will enhance complexity and ensure consistent quality from year to year. This is especially important for branded wines where consumers are looking for consistency in style and taste with no variation from vintage to vintage. The Speck Brothers, of Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery fame, have created the ultimate “assembly wine,” Sibling Rivalry. This red blend highlights the complimentary nature of each of the following varietals; Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Gamay. Red and blackberry fruits and spices are backed up by well-integrated tannins. It’s a great value, crowd pleasing barbecue wine. Fill those propane tanks, ignite, and get ready to grill your favourites. 

Sibling Rivalry Red LCBO #126151, $13.95.  

It looks like winter is finally behind us, fingers crossed. Spring has sprung associated with rebirth, renewal and growth as we transition from the dormancy of winter to life. It symbolizes the triumph of light over darkness and warmth over cold, often associated with new beginnings, joy, and increased energy, along with activities like planting, cleaning, and blooming flowers. Throwing off our parkas, we transition to lighter foods – comfort foods are put on the back burner, literally. Ditto with beverages, darker coloured ones segue to lighter, more refreshing choices. Less red wine more white wine. In fact, the pendulum is swinging back to greater white wine consumption away from the red wine dominance of the last two decades. 

Riesling, as most wine folks agree, is one of the most versatile white wines. Lighter bodied, aromatic, off-dry, low alcohol, packed with flavour, it’s a crowd pleaser. Savour on its own. It’s also the perfect pairing for most lighter dishes. Relax Riesling, hailing from Germany, the home of this noble grape, is North America’s best selling brand of Imported Riesling. Since it’s spring, pair with spring rolls whether vegetarian, seafood or white meat based. Available in the 750 mL and 1500 mL size formats.

Till April 25, 100 Aeroplan Bonus Miles may be collected at your favourite LCBO with the purchase of the 1500 mL size.

RELAX Riesling 1500 mL, LCBO #30561, $27.00 

First off, CUNE stands for Viticultural Company of Northern Spain, in English translation. As a major producer in the classic wine region of Rioja, the red Tempranillo grape is home here. 88% of Rioja’s red wine production is Tempranillo. CUNE’s plantings are located in the premium higher elevation Rioja Alta sub-region. Fermentation takes 18 months, followed by 24 months barrel aging in French and American oak. A minimum of 12 months bottle aging results in the complete integration of the flavours of the grape and wood plus the mellowness only time can provide. The Reserva classification in Rioja means at least three years of aging. While the 2020 vintage had its challenges during the growing season, it ended up being a very good vintage. Deep garnet in colour, the nose gives off many nuances of black fruit and smoked meat. On the palate, we experience a cornucopia of intriguing, juicy flavours with a lingering, licorice finish, the result of minimal handling during winemaking. Pair this wine with venison, grilled meats or strong cheeses. Enjoyment will continue for up to six to eight years of aging. Vinous.com rated the wine with 92 points.          

2020 CUNE Reserva Rioja DOCa, LCBO #417659, $25.95

Easter is a favourite family feast, a get-together to enjoy friendship, food and drink. Before gathering around the dinner table, there’s the mandatory easter egg hunt. Watching the kids or grandkids scurry around the backyard looking for their treats is entertaining for the adults, especially for those who have conspired to hide the kiddies’ goodies creatively.        

Lamb is a perennial traditional Easter dish. We prefer roasted leg of lamb, best known for its tender meat, rich flavour, and religious symbolism. Classic seasonings include garlic, rosemary, and lemon. Side dishes such as roasted potatoes, asparagus, or gratin will round things out. What about the wine pairing? The combination of fat and gamey flavours plus the subtle, sweet juiciness of the meat and herb aromas require a complex, medium-bodied red wine. Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery is one of the best known and original wineries of the Niagara Peninsula’s craft wine movement. They also own extensive plantings of old vines, especially Baco Noir. Some go back as far as 1984. Dry with deep purple hues, notes of smoke, spices, cocoa and plum will match the meat beautifully. Happy Easter.       

Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Old Vines LCBO #459966, $19.95

At the opening ceremonies of the Suez Canal in Egypt on Nov. 17, 1869, Armand von Buhl was in attendance with most of Europe’s nobility and captains of commerce.

Riesling wines from the famous von Buhl estate located in Germany’s Pfalz growing region, were served to toast the engineering feat that would cut on average half of the traditional shipping time and distance instead of having to sail around the southern tip of Africa via the Cape of Good Hope. About the wines, the local papers wrote:

“They tasted splendid, in spite of the heat.” This was the crowning achievement in a long and varied career of the founder of the von Buhl estate. As vice president of the Bavarian legislature, Armand was accorded the title reichsrat, which, loosely translated, means privy councilor.

To honor his achievements in commerce, government, and winemaking, the von Buhl estate named its Riesling Kabinett, Armand. We are fortunate to have this wine released via LCBO Vintages after a long hiatus. Beautifully balanced between sensuous subtle sweetness and fresh acidity, notes of honey, apple and citrus will compliment, not overpower, lighter to medium dishes. With Easter just around the corner, we can think of nothing better than a pairing with ham. Take your choice of maple or pineapple glazing.

Sommeliers Choice Awards gave the wine 94 points. It’s also certified organic. Do yourself a favour and lay down a few bottles for 3 to 5 years and then experience the complex and hedonistic development only a top German Riesling can deliver.          

2023 Reichsrat von Buhl Armand Riesling Kabinett LCBO #45009, $26.95

Grüner Veltliner, pronounced Grooner Velt-Leaner, is Austria’s signature white grape variety. In North America, folks in the wine trade simply call it “Grooner.” It accounts for one-third of  Austria’s vineyard acreage and is hardly planted elsewhere.  Always dry, with a bright acidity and medium body, the bouquet gives us subtle notes of grapefruit and signature white pepper. Not just a warm weather sipper, it is drunk in copious quantities in restaurants, café’s and Heuriger (wine bars) all over Austria. Drink on its own or pair with lighter dishes including seafoods. But the real match made in Himmel (heaven) is Wiener Schnitzel. We are not talking about the standard schnitzels available everywhere. No more than a pounded, non-descript breaded cutlet made of pork and panfried – ho-hum! Real Wiener (Viennese) Schnitzel is only allowed to be made with veal. Pounded ever so thinly and dredged in egg and bread crumbs, it is deep fried and will be light, tender and delicate. And then to pair with Grüner Veltliner!!! Lenz Moser’s premium, limited production Prestige line of wines is meant for upscale retailers, such as LCBO Vintages as well as restaurants. Peter Moser, no relation, of Falstaff, Austria’s leading wine publication, gave it 90 points.

2024 Lenz Moser Prestige Grüner Veltliner LCBO #71233, $19.95 

The ancestral home of the immensely popular Sauvignon Blanc wine is France’s middle Loire River valley. With Sancerre the centre of production, no goat cheese should be allowed to be enjoyed without a cool glass of Sauvignon Blanc. Taken to New Zealand, the Kiwis planted huge acreages and exported record volumes of Sauvignon Blanc to the world so that the grape and the country are almost synonymous. The grape’s herbaceous, aromatic benchmark aromas and bone-dry taste are unmistakable and recognizable by most white wine lovers. 

Not to be left behind, North America is following the lead of producers from the Southern Hemisphere. This incudes the Niagara Peninsula with Henry of Pelham Family Estate stepping up to the plate to knock a winning Sauvignon Blanc out of the park. Gentle gooseberry, floral and citrus aromas gently waft from the glass. This gives way to a well-balanced, bone-dry pleasing palate and a mere 4 g/L residual sugar. The alcohol clocks in at a moderate 12.5%. Harkening back to France, soft goat cheese would be our first choice pairing. Broiled lobster tails dipped in garlic butter is a close second. Oh, by the way, there is currently a $2 price reduction in place.                     

2025 Heny of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO #430546, $14.95 till March 29, regular price $16.95

The primary grape used in the production of the dynamic duo of the premium Piemontese wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, is Nebbiolo. It is unrivalled as the finest red grape varietal of Northern Italy and takes its name from the Italian word for fog, Nebbia. In the fall, the vine-covered hills, and there is literally no flat land here, will be covered in fog until late in the morning. The sun will burn off the late autumn mists and reveal a rich tapestry of gold and copper coloured vines with the snow-covered peaks of the Alps, in contrast, far in the background. The Patrizi winery is long established with extensive vineyard holdings within the premium Alba appellation. And Nebbiolo grape plantings figure prominently.  At the top end they produce Barolos and Barbarescos which require a lengthier time in the barrel and bottle to mature, with premium prices to boot. However, a straight Nebbiolo varietal is produced in order to offer consumers a more affordable and earlier approachable experience. Garnet red in colour, cherry, red fruits and violets dominate the bouquet. The mouth feel is structured with a smooth, pleasant and lengthy finish. Enjoy with most meats and strong cheeses.               

2023 Patrizi Nebbiolo D’Alba LCBO #25523, $22.95

With Italy in the middle of hosting the 2026 Winter Olympics, let’s focus on a new breed of full-bodied Italian red wine. Super Tuscan is a consumer term, not an official designation or appellation. A number of well-established, yet enterprising estate producers started planting international grape varieties in the 1970’s along Tuscany’s Mediterranean coastline. These included Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Now considered the super stars of Italy, with prices to match, they are international in style yet have a distinct “Italianess” about them. Powerful, highly structured and flamboyant, they are the result of aging in a combination of new and previously filled oak barriques. The Macchiole estate, a key Super Tuscan producer, is located in the Bolgheri appellation which has proven itself to be the epicenter for this type of wine. Beautifully balanced with dark fruit, herbs, spices and violet notes, it is fresh and polished with a well-integrated, subtle, tannic structure. While it may be aged for up to ten years, it can be enjoyed now. Decant the wine and let it breath for half an hour before serving. It’s excellent value when compared to the triple digit prices of most icon Super Tuscans. Since the city of Milan is the co-host for the Winter Olympics, let’s pair this wine with the city’s traditional meat dish, Osso Buco. It also goes by the name, veal shanks Milanese, which are slow-braised with vegetables, wine and broth. This wine was scored 93 points by jebdunnick.com.

2023 Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso LCBO # 483412, $49.95

Valentine’s Day is upon us. It’s dedicated to St. Valentine, patron saint of lovers. Sweets galore plus wines and other alcoholic beverages are offered with heart-themed packaging. But there’s another Saint in town. Saint-Maurice is the patron of the infantry and is often depicted as a black Roman soldier who was martyred for refusing to persecute believers. In the Rh?ne region, 22 villages are allowed to carry their name, in this case, St. Maurice. Located in the southern Rh?ne, the label also lists “Terroirs les Oliviers” as the region was once an important source of olive oil production with extensive olive grove plantings. But severe frosts over the years have resulted in re-purposing the land to grape production. This typical Syrah Grenache blend delivers us an elegant red with aromas of red and black fruits, silky tannins and a long, lively finish. It’s certified organic. We would pair it with lamb Proven?al, a classic meat dish braised with flavours of southern France including tomatoes, garlic, olive oil; and herbs such as rosemary and thyme. James Suckling awarded the wine 92 points. 2023 was a memorable vintage of full-bodied reds with ability to age and develop greater complexity. Do not hesitate to lay down a few extra bottles.  

While most people tend to associate red wines with Spain, which I do love, I have taken a real liking to whites from the Rueda region grown along the Duero River of north central Spain. Forgoing the traditional Palomino grape variety which was used for ages to produce fortified wines, the emphasis lately has shifted to alternative styles. New winemaking techniques and styles of wines have been pushed to the forefront through the pioneering efforts of progressive local producers. The sleeping beauty awakened from its centuries long sleep is the Verdejo grape. Prime vineyards are planted mainly on sandy soils throughout Rueda, including some vines that are over 140 years old. With its similar style to Sauvignon Blanc, fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel and lees aging, we have a modern, food friendly wine. The end product ticks off the boxes today’s wine drinkers are looking for. Light yellow in the glass, this wine offers generous tropical fruit aromas. The mouth feel is gorgeous with textures of stone fruits and wet stone flavours lingering on the palate. Despite the double digit below zero temperatures these days, let’s lighten things up with the ultimate Spanish food match – seafood paella. There are lots of recipes available on the internet. Verdejo pairs magically with the assemblage of different textures and flavours of the key ingredients of rice, mussels, prawns, calamari and spices and don’t dare leave out the saffron.

2023 Carrasvinas Verdejo Rueda DO LCBO # 82073, $19.95.