Harry's Blog

While the heading of this blog, with its taxi or Uber reference is meant to poke a bit of fun, the cab we are referring to is none other than the grape, Cabernet Sauvignon. In the wine trade, in our wine speak, we simply call it “Cab.” or “Cab Sauv.” On another note, the term cab originally derives from cabriolet, a two-wheeled, one-horse carriage let out for hire.

Cabernet Sauvignon remains the leading noble red grape variety recognized as producing elegant, characterful, age worthy wines. Originating from Bordeaux France, it is the number one, most prized premium red wine planted around the world, and here specifically, in California. North of Napa and Sonoma, Lake County, in the shadow of Mt. Konocti, an extinct volcano, has built up a reputation for its fine, affordable Cabernet Sauvignons. The Shannon Family, with their base here, has been a local ranching fixture for several generations. In the mid nineties, they identified prime locations, planted vineyards and began making wine. Going forward from 2022, their vineyards are now certified organic and sustainable. While the appellation is Lake County, all of the fruit comes from three estate-owned higher elevation vineyards located in the High Valley, Red Hills and Big Valley sub-appellations. Gentle, smoky oak aromas start us off. Seductive, mouth-filling, dark berry fruit flavours are followed by notes of pepper and spice leading to a lengthy, satisfying finish marked by hints of cedar and smoky oak. A soft grip of tannins in the finish wraps up this noble yet very approachable Cabernet Sauvignon.

 As cattle ranchers, in addition to producing wine, the Shannon family’s recommended pairing would be, no surprise here, braised beef short ribs.   

 2022 Shannon Ridge High Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO#16182, $21.70,(save the HST until Feb. 15th)

Bordeaux Blend Beckons

The expression Bordeaux Blend refers to producing a wine that is made up of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. The ancestral home of these grape varieties is none other than France’s premium wine region, Bordeaux. New World winemakers have duplicated this wine style successfully by growing the aforementioned varieties in their local vineyards. Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery, based in the Niagara Peninsula, is one of Canada’s original estate wineries. Cabernets and Merlot have been part of their offering since its founding. “The School House” wording is prominently included on the bottle’s front label. It refers to an old building on the winery site that served as a school house generations ago. Also, the winery founders, Paul and Bobbi Speck, ran a small private school in Toronto prior to getting into the wine business.  

Deep ruby in colour, the bouquet is dominated with black currant aromas, followed by oak and pepper notes. On the palate, we encounter balance and structure with underpinning tannins and dark fruit nuances. Decanting before serving would allow additional aeration of the wine, enhancing its complexity and enjoyment. A Terriyaki steak matching would bring out the complexities of the wine even more. The 2024 Canadian National Wine Awards gave this wine 90 points.        

 2020 Henry of Pelham “The School House” Cabernet/Merlot LCBO# 395855, $24.80 (save the GST, until Feb.15) 

To behold means to see or observe a thing or person, especially a remarkable or impressive one. Take a bottle of Beloki Spanish red wine. What’s not to admire! Let’s look further. The Rioja region in central Spain is the country’s undisputed premium red wine growing region based on the Tempranillo grape. While respecting long held traditions, Beloki is produced in a fresher, more immediate drinking style. Grapes are hand picked in small batches from forty-year-old vines grown in a Mediterranean climate with Atlantic influences. Fermentation is followed by 12 months aging in French and American oak. The colour is bright ruby. On the nose we receive hints of red berries, vanilla and spices. The long, lingering finish is balanced with smooth tannins. 

Lamb is a match made in heaven for Rioja wines like Beloki whether simply roasted or as juicy lamb chops. The delicacy of the meat and smoothness of the wine are an unbeatable combination. Wine & Spirits magazine scored it 91 points. 

2019 Beloki Rioja Crianza LCBO # 33520, $13.90 (save the GST, regular price $15.95)

The term Rhône Ranger refers to California winemakers taking a different tack. Instead of the dominant production of wines from the traditional Bordeaux and Burgundy grapes, they look to the varietals common to the Rhône Valley of Southern France. Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault instead of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. One of the self-proclaimed leaders of the group was none other than against-the-stream, enfant terrible winemaker Randall Grahm and his Bonny Doon Vineyard.  

Ever the comedian, the wine labels and brands he created poke fun, but the contents always demonstrate serious winemaking. Le Cigare Volant, his French style red Rhône blend, translates as flying saucer. It refers to an ordinance passed by the town council of the famous wine village Chateauneuf-du-Pape in 1954 that cigare volants were prohibited from landing in their vineyards. This occurred at a time when the western world was obsessed with reports of extraterrestrials and spaceships. No sightings were ever recorded but it still had humankind on edge. The label contains all kinds of quirky comments. Look for them and get a chuckle. For example, “Ce n’est pas un cigare.” This is not a cigar.

 Le Cigare Volant is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault and Petite Sirah grapes sourced from premium vineyard sites located along California’s Central Coast. Fermentation took place in stainless steel with untoasted oak added to aid in texture and colour stability. Bottling of this 2022 vintage took place the following summer.

Drinking beautifully now, it can be aged for another five years. Start the New Year by pairing Le Cigare Volant with a rare-to-medium rare flank steak.         

2022 Bonny Doon Vineyard Le Cigare Volant LCBO #18516, $19.10 (save the GST, regular price $21.95)

There’s an unbreakable bond between top quality sparkling wines and end-of-year celebrations. And then, as a further testimonial, throw in a Platinum medal from the 2024 Wine Align National Wine Awards. We’re talking about Henry of Pelham’s Cuvée Catharine Brut Rosé. Produced by the time-honoured, traditional, in-the-bottle secondary fermentation as is practiced in the Champagne Region of France, the results are nothing less than spectacular. Enjoy this cuvée of pink bubbles before, during or after midnight on December 31^st. Or, it’s a great partner with brunch on the first day of January. A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and aged in the bottle for up to 24 months, it exhibits great balance with lingering flavours of red berry fruits and apple notes. In addition to Limited Time Offer and HST savings, for every bottle purchased you will receive an extra 100 Aeroplan Bonus Points. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!

Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut LCBO #217505, $26.95

St.Nicholas, the third century Bishop of Myra in what is now modern Turkey, was persecuted and imprisoned for his convictions. The story goes that he rescued three young women from abuse and punishment by their captors by providing three bags of gold. Out of the selfless act of kindness grew the Santa Claus legend. While North Americans look to Santa or Jolly Old St. Nick, as he is often referred to, Europeans start the Christmas season on Dec. 6, St. Nicholas Day, by giving small gifts to the nice children and a proverbial peace of coal, if one can even be found, to the naughty ones. And then there is Christmas Eve or Day, when the real gift-giving takes place in earnest together with family, supplemented with copious amounts of food, and drink, in moderation.

For larger family holiday gatherings, instead of buying several bottles of wine with the pain of opening and pouring, why not go the convenient, economical Bag-in-a-Box (BIB) route. Radio Boka Tempranillo 3 L BIB red, containing the equivalent of 4 - 750 ml bottles from the Valencia region of Spain, is one of the best selling wines at the LCBO in this format. The bouquet and medium body evoke notes of dark fruits and berries with well-integrated, smooth tannins. The airtight bag and pouring spout technology keep the air out of the wine and fresh for weeks. Prime rib pairing? You betcha! 

Radio Boka Tempranillo 3 Liter BIB LCBO # 491118, $37.50 (includes current HST savings)

The mighty Danube River flows past premium vineyards in the Wachau region of central Austria. Its tributary, the Kamp River valley (Kamptal), is characterized by terrassed vineyard sites. Elevated sites consist of stony soils which deliver cool, fruit-driven wines with mineral nuances and good aging potential. Lower sites produce expressive youthful wines with a bit more body. We are talking textbook Riesling here with freshness, finesse and youthful tension. Grapes are handpicked, gently whole cluster pressed, fermented, and then aged only in stainless steel. Bründlmayer is in the top echelon of premium Austrian wine estates with international recognition, and  accolades to match. White flowers, stone fruit and citrus peel dominate the bouquet. On the palate we are greeted by white peach and slender pure fruit tones underpinned with a crisp acidity. Perfect for enjoying in its youth, the potential for further maturing into legendary enjoyment cannot be underestimated. It received

93 points from jamessuckling.com. What to pair? Wok prepared Asian dishes (but not too spicy), seafood, grilled fish, white meat, fried or roasted chicken. Or simply enjoy on its own. Swirl, sniff, sip, enjoy. Repeat.  

2023 Bründlmayer Kamptal Terrassen Riesling LCBO #40885 $34.95

The average 750 ml bottle of French Champagne contains approximately 49 million bubbles, but who’s counting! Sales of sparkling wine, especially Champagne, continue to clip along at a fast pace. Is it the whole uncorking procedure? Remove the capsule, unwind the wire hood, gently manoeuver the cork out, with a small pop, PLEASE. Be gentle, to avoid expelling the precious liquid and bubbles captured inside. While still wines wait well behaved in the glass until they are consumed, one cannot but be mesmerized by the steady, rising stream of pin point bubbles in a sparkling wine. Then, there’s the gentle ping as one glass touches the other followed by a mandatory toast. Nothing like the tingling and tickling on the tongue as the bubbles bounce around making contact with the palate’s nerve receptors. Drink solo to celebrate any special occasion, or pair with food. Almost anything goes with Champagne – oysters, caviar, and any other seafood or lighter dishes including Asian or Indian. Now that we have captured your interest in Champagne in general, may we recommend one of the LCBO’s top sellers available year round. Taittinger is one of Champagne’s most respected brands. And, until January 5, consumers may enjoy savings of $6 for each bottle purchased of their Brut Réserve. Whether for your own enjoyment or gift giving this holiday season, go for it.  

Taittinger Brut Réserve Champagne LCBO #365312, $73.90 ($6 off regular price of $79.90)

Everybody is scurrying around looking for savings on every possible shopping item on Black Friday.  For enjoyment on Friday evening, or any other Friday for that matter, we recommend a delicious, aromatic, dryish white wine that hails from the vineyards of the Baden region that lie in the shadow of Germany’s Black Forest. Not so easy to pronounce, but easy to enjoy, is the Gewürztraminer (Geh-verts-trah-meen-er) grape. Its ancestral home is  Alto Adige, the German speaking part of northern Italy also called South Tyrol. But it is well-known, planted and very much appreciated in France’s Alsace and especially in southern Germany’s Baden growing region. A soft, rich, subtle spiciness is the characteristic taste on the palate coupled with the unmistakable aromatic bouquet of lychees, grapefruit, rose petals and ginger. It’s the perfect pairing with spicy Asian dishes, Indian cuisine and our favourite, Zwiebelkuchen - onion tart in Englis; or a mild, nutty Muenster cheese.

 2022 Baden Gewürztraminer LCBO #336735, $14.95

Tokaji Aszu is the only wine, other than Champagne, that must go through a second fermentation to end up in its final, one-of-a-kind state. A dry table wine made up of a fermented cuvée of local white, indigenous Hungarian grapes of Harslevelu, Furmint, and Yellow Muscat, is the starting point. Then, a second fermentation is created by adding the desired number of puttonyos, (a measure of shriveled aszu grapes affected by the friendly botrytis cinerea fungus), to neutral wooden casks called gönci, containing the base wine. The more puttonyos, the sweeter the resulting wine. This wine has five. The second fermentation is aided by the friendly cellar born fungus, cladosporum cellerae, which covers the labyrinth of cellar walls, deep below ground level. It’s a miracle of nature, too, unique to Hungary’s Tokaji region, where, at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog Rivers, fall mists promote the formation of noble rot on the grapes. The casks act as wooden wombs, so to speak. The indigenous fungus does the job with its particular yeasts and bacteria working to assist in giving birth to the unctuous dessert wine the world has come to appreciate and love. This can take anywhere between eleven months to two years. By law, the finished Tokaji wine must age at least two years in the cask and one year in the bottle before being released for sale. It can only be produced in exceptional years such as 2017 as is the case here. It is a beautiful wine to sip on its own, with the appropriate background music, especially when in a contemplative mood. Think rhapsody rather than rap. A great partner to fois gras, but we think the perfect match made in heaven, or in the cheese shop, is blue-veined cheese. Then again, it’s the ideal dessert in liquid form. It’s the perfect gift for the real wine afficionado in your family this holiday season. Can be laid down for 10 years, even longer. Wine Spectator magazine awarded it 93 points.

2017 Royal Tokaji Red Label 5 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszu LCBO # 959031, $69.95

Pinot Noir is called the “Heartbreak Grape” because it is a finicky varietal to grow. It likes a cooler climate for a long, extended growing season which translates to wines that are elegant, not overpowering and wonderful for pairing with a variety of foods. Not a problem in its home turf in France, especially Burgundy. But in the New World, where temperatures are considerably warmer, the best places or terroirs are where ocean currents prevail. Or higher elevations. California has been very successful in cultivating Pinot Noir. One of the “cooler” places is Lake County, north of Napa and Sonoma. Here, the Shannon family has a special site for Pinot Noir in its eight kilometer Long Valley Ranch.

The colour is signature garnet with subtle aromas of oak and red berry fruits. The palate is classic mid weight Burgundy style followed by a beautiful vanilla and dried berry fruit finish. Wine Enthusiast magazine in its September 1, 2022 issue gave it 92 points. Enjoy with softer cheeses such as Brie, Camembert. For something heartier go the beef stew route. The classic benchmark stew is none other than a French-inspired Boeuf Bourgignon.        

2020 Clay Shannon Lake County Long Valley Ranch Pinot Noir LCBO #38040, $29.95

Heading south on France’s mighty Rhône River to its delta at the Mediterranean Sea, the left bank is home to some of the most prestigious and well-known Rhône appellations. Think Crozes Hermitage, Hermitage or Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The same grape varieties of Syrah and Grenache that are the basis of these appellations will be found in less expensive wines with the Côtes du Rhone designation. Côtes means slopes, and grape plantings located on these locations mean better exposure to the sun and soil drainage. However, the Ferraton family, esteemed growers and winemakers with sites in all the premium appellations along the Rhône River, will use some of these top drops for blending and raising the taste and quality profile of their entry level wines. The colour is garnet and ruby with ripe red fruits and hints of spice in the nose. Fine tannins and great length characterize the palate. Lay down for a year or two, if you wish, to develop more complexity. But just thinking about it, we’re salivating over serving classic, smoky Texas style ribs with this Ferraton Samorëns Côtes du Rhône.    

2023 Ferraton Père & Fils Samorëns Côtes du Rhône LCBO #168708, $17.95