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Harry's Blog

  • Whirled Famous Grape

    Pour it into your glass and give it a whirl. The aroma is unmistakable with floral, spicy notes leaning toward lychees and rose petals – a benchmark bouquet if there ever was one. We are talking about the universally admired, yet not-so-easy to pronounce Gewürztraminer grape. Repeat three times – geh-werts-trah-mean-er. See, not so difficult, and it’s really easy to enjoy. Translated from the German, it means the spicy grape from Tramin, where it is supposed to have its origins. Tramin, a picturesque wine growing village in German speaking part of northern Italy is known as Alto Adige in Italian and Süd Tirol (South Tyrol) in German. It used to be part of Austria until the end of the First World War after which it was ceded to Italy as a reward for fighting on the Allied side. We will skip delving further into the politics any further. Pale yellow in colour, the taste is slightly off dry with refreshing spicy melon flavours and a lingering finish. This version of this grape hails from Germany’s Baden region, across the Rhine River from France’s Alsace, another hotbed of Gewürztraminer. With wanting to control the calories somewhat after a holiday week of celebrating, lighter tasting classic pairings would include Quiche Lorraine, onion tart or avocado salad.

    2021 Baden Gewürztraminer LCBO #336735, $15.95 

  • Clink With Pink Bubbly To Ring In New Year

    But let’s do it properly. Remove the capsule, unwind the wire hood, gently manoeuvre the cork out, with a small pop, PLEASE. Be gentle, to avoid expelling the precious liquid and bubbles captured inside. While still wines wait well behaved in the glass until they are consumed, one cannot but be mesmerized by the steady, rising stream of pinpoint bubbles in a quality sparkling wine. Then, there’s the gentle ping as one glass touches the other followed by a mandatory toast. Nothing like the tingling and tickling on the tongue as the bubbles bounce around making contact with the palate’s nerve receptors. Drink solo to celebrate New Year’s, or pair with food. Almost anything goes with sparkling wines – oysters, caviar, and any other seafood, lighter dishes including Asian or Indian dishes. Now that we have gotten your interest in sparkling wines in general, we need to recommend a specific sparkler available not just during the holiday season at the LCBO, but year round.

    Everybody has been smitten by the colour pink and the rosé wines of summer, but a rosé sparkler is a beauty to behold in the glass. Light salmon in colour with shades of copper, the bouquet has subtle aromas of citrus and strawberry. The palate is lively with a steady stream of bubbles delivering notes of grapefruit and a pleasant yeastiness. Until Dec. 31 there’s a $5 limited time offer per bottle purchased, down from the regular price of $32.95. It’s the flagship brand produced by one of Ontario’s premiere Methode Traditionelle sparkling wine houses, Henry of Pelham. We are talking about Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut VQA.

    Cuvée Catharine Rosé Brut VQA LCBO # 217505, $27.95

  • Festive Feasting Favourite

    With utmost respect to traditional Christmas favourites such as turkey, ham, or seafood, a hearty prime rib roast is the plated meat of choice by many a Canadian family. Of course, a full-bodied cut of meat chock full of proteins and marbled fats demands a full-bodied red wine to match. Making its debut at the LCBO as the December “Wine of the Month” is this Chilean blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon with a 40% addition of the iconic Carmenere grape.

    An historic Chilean producer, Santa Ema’s vineyards are found from the shadow of the Andes mountains in the east to the Pacific Coast in the west throughout the Maipo River valley. It is one of the best known zones for production of world-class wines lending unique characteristics to the terroir of each wine. Since 2011, Santa Ema has been certified under the Chilean government’s Code of Sustainability.  With a generous aroma of black cherries, subtle notes of tobacco and chocolate accent the long finish.

    It’s outstanding value at $17.95, enjoyable now, or why not lay down a few bottles to savour over the next couple of years. The highly respected and often cited, Chilean Descorchados Wine Guide, awarded this wine 91 points.

    Please enjoy responsibly with family and friends. We wish all of our customers Happy Holidays and a Merry Christmas, or as they say in in Spanish in Chile, Feliz Navidad.

    2021 Santa Ema Barrel Reserve 60/40 Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenere LCBO #34606, $17.95

     

  • Best Under Pressure

    It is estimated that there are 100 million bubbles in the average bottle of French Champagne. That’s a lot of pressure built up, from the secondary fermentation that takes place in the bottle for which the time honoured Methode Champenoise is responsible. The muselet, a French term, is the wire and metal hood that holds the cork in place. Then there is the punt, the indentation in the bottom of the bottle. This creates more surface area in the glass, again giving extra strength to the bottle since the pressure inside can reach a ballistic 90 p.s.i. All this is calibrated carefully by the producer, in our case, the venerable house of Taittinger.  

    A longtime favourite, and top selling Champagne brand in Ontario, Taittinger Brut Reserve is perfect for all those holiday celebrations. And, of course, finish with a big pop and usher out the old year while bridging the celebrations into the New Year. Champagne pairs with almost everything except red meat, so we will let you choose what to pair it with. Our favourite is Oysters Rockefeller. And then there’s an added incentive! It’s a $6 per bottle limited time price reduction through December 31.    

    Taittinger Brut Reserve Champagne LCBO # 365312, $ 69.80. (includes $6 off)

  • Easy To Be Thorough in Martinborough

    New Zealand’s Martinborough wine region, an hour or so northeast of the capital city, Wellington, is considered to be the North Island’s “Burgundy.” The emphasis here is quality over quantity considering the region accounts for only 1% of the nation’s wine production. Sheltered from the cold winds that batter Wellington, drive along serpentine and hairpin turning State Highway 2 through the Rimutaki Range, and you will know what we mean. Standing in the town of Martinborough and looking westward toward this range, it looks like three up-turned canoes side by side, which legend has it, belonged to Kupe, the legendary figure in the mythology and oral history of the Maori people.

    The compact town of Martinborough is built around a centrally located quadrangle of streets. Vineyards surrounding the town are planted primarily with the signature varietals of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. With some twenty-plus winery cellar doors within the town’s boundaries, it’s easy to maneuver them whether walking, cycling, or driving. Palliser Estate is a highly esteemed, pioneering, local benchmark Pinot Noir producer. It’s Pencarrow label, named after the vineyard of the same name, represents outstanding value. With a medium body and silky texture, the fragrant bouquet of ripe, red berry fruits invites us on to a flavourful finish with lingering notes of dark berries, a gentle smokiness and fine tannins.       

    Sam Kim, of Wine Orbit, awarded it 93 points. Pair with grilled teriyaki salmon skewers.

    2020 Pencarrow Martinborough Pinot Noir LCBO # 692301, $29.95

  • Ho, Ho, Ho, Here’s to Merlot!

    The snow’s looking all festive
    And what better reason
    Than toasting the best
    This Holiday season.
    Folks are all cheery
    With shawl and mitten
    So it’s time to enjoy
    Some Holiday sippin’.
    The wine we suggest
    Tastes of plum and berry
    It’s smooth and delicious
    And makes us all merry.
    So say hello and Ho Ho Ho
    To this fine, rich, Sicilian Merlot.
    With lots of Holiday cheer
    Let’s toast the gifting Season
    Best wishes for every reason
    And to all a Happy New Year.

     

    With medium tannins and not too much acidity you will find Merlot pairs well with many foods this holiday season – favourites include roast duck, turkey and filet of beef.

    A blue cheese such as Gorgonzola, hailing from Italy, like this Merlot, would be mandatory for any cheese platter, before the meal, or after the main course as a segue to dessert. And rich chocolate creations have been best buddies with Merlot forever.

    Cusumano Sicilian Merlot LCBO # 19779, $13.95

  • Alsatian Sensation

    Alsatian can refer to the Germanic dialect spoken in the Alsace region of France. It is similar to what is spoken across the Rhine River in southern Germany and northern Switzerland. It is also the name of a breed of dog, commonly known as a German Shepherd. Or it can refer to anything coming from Alsace, in this case, wine.

    It’s no wonder that the labels of Alsace wines look very Germanic and identify the grape variety. Then, there’s the familiar tall Riesling flute bottle. In 1853, Frederic Boeckel, an established winemaker from the village of Mittelbergheim, founded the business which is today managed by the brothers Jean-Daniel and Thomas Boeckel, who are the fifth generation. The vineyard extends over 23 hectares which are owned by the estate, and these are complemented by the purchase of grapes from a further 20 hectares of vineyards. The majority of the vines are cultivated according to organic agricultural principles, and full organic certification is currently in progress. Located in the Bas Rhin region, that is northern Alsace, vineyard site selection is the key to best quality. Sheltered by the Vosges Mountains to the west and lying in its rain shadow, the area generally has the lowest average rainfall in France. The wines here tend to be a little crisper and not quite as full as wines stemming from the warmer, more southerly Haut Rhin province. The LCBO tempts us in its latest Vintages release with a dry, rich, aromatic textbook Riesling from Boeckel.

    The perfect food match would have to be the Alsatian classic, Choucroute Garnie. Garnished sauerkraut sounds more sophisticated in French. It is a very tasty, and filling, dish. A platter is prepared with a bed of cooked sauerkraut topped with rib tickling meats such as diverse sausages, smoked pork chops and thick bacon slices. Mandatory potatoes, simmering for hours till tender in that very same sauerkraut, are piled on the platter in copious quantities. The sweet and sour yin yang sensation of the cabbage is the perfect foil for the meat and its juices while pairing beautifully with a glass of Boeckel’s dry Alsatian Riesling.

     2021 Boeckel Alsace Riesling LCBO #29823, $17.95

  • Viognier’s Versatility and Affordability

    The Viognier grape has its origins in the Rhône valley of France and will generally make up the majority of any Côtes du Rhône appellation white wine which is almost always a blend of local varietals. The best-known address for this grape is on the very steep slopes of the upper Rhône village of Condrieu. And the most famous and expensive producer is Chateau Grillet, always 100% Viognier.

    Wines made from Viognier are typically rich and perfumed with a soft palate. It’s one of those wines that works much better as a compliment to dishes rather than a contrast. While there is a range of different styles from around the world, the common elements of most Viogniers are soft acidity, textured palate and striking ripe white tree fruit flavours with a touch of minerality.

    Veal scallops cooked in a cream sauce with herbs would be our recommended tasty pairing, especially if a dash of Viognier is thrown into the recipe for good measure. It’s a dream with creamy style cheeses too. Gorgonzola is a great partner with its mix of creaminess and sharp flavours. Round and fruit driven aromas are an added enticing element. But then again, it’s the perfect wine to swirl, sip and savor on its own.   

    We are fortunate in our Ontario market that Southern France’s best-known specialist producer, Gérard Betrand, is able to supply us with a regional blend of Viognier that represents outstanding value.

    2022 Gerard Bertrand Réserve Speciale Viognier LCBO #147975, $14.95.

  • A Beaune To Pick

    There is nothing like the seductive bouquet of a great red Burgundy. And the town of Beaune with its surrounding vineyards is the place to start. Beaune is the heart and soul and center of the wine trade of Burgundy and has been so since the Middle Ages. Wine has made Beaune famous and world renowned and even those who will never have the opportunity to visit will repeat its name in reverence.

    Ancestors of the Berger family have owned the Manoir (Manor House) de Mercey since the French Revolution. In fact, the property’s history can be traced even further back to the 13th century when the Benedictine monks of Cluny built the first Priory and started planting grapes. Currently, the estate covers 26 hectares of prime vineyards situated in the higher slopes of the southern Hautes Côtes de Beaune appellation. Always 100% Pinot Noir, “Au Paradis” is a 3.3-hectare plot planted in 1967. Bright ruby in colour, the bouquet evokes aromas of red fruits. The medium body finishes with a crisp, underpinning acidity and then trails off into a beautiful, delicately balanced finish. Classic red Burgundy! France’s highly esteemed Gilbert & Gaillard Wine Challenge awarded it a Gold Medal in 2022. Still young, decanting before serving would enhance the overall taste experience but laying down for 4-5 years, if you can wait that long, would allow this wine to demonstrate its peak level of enjoyment. Meat dishes and soft cheeses are a tasty pairing, but for something totally different we would savour this Pinot Noir with a rabbit roast.     

    2020 Manoir de Mercey Hautes Côtes de Beaune “Au Paradis” LCBO # 20913, $38.95

  • The Law’s On Our Side of the World Now

    Central Otago, located on New Zealand’s South Island, is the southernmost grape growing region in the world. Before grape growing started in earnest in the 1970’s, there has been a history of extensive fruit growing in river valley orchards and on elevated plateaus, especially along the Kawarau and Clutha rivers. But 150 years ago, the area was abuzz with a gold rush. Having taken a boat tour along the Clutha River myself, one can still see the remains of stone huts that provided primitive lodgings for the miners, commonly referred to as “diggers.” They came from around the world to seek their fortune to stake and work their claims. But with the lawlessness associated with a major gold rush boom at the end of the world, it resulted in the Otago goldfields being regulated by a system of laws overseen by appointed officials such as goldfield commissioners and police.

    It made sense for the Bannock Brae Winery to choose Digger’s Law as a brand name for this premium Central Otago Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir accounts for seventy percent of wine production in this region. The grapes for Digger’s Law are sourced from three distinct vineyard sites located in the sub regions of Gibbston Valley, Bendigo and Bannockburn. Burgundian in style, a savoury earthiness combines with berry fruits to dominate the bouquet. On the palate, the balanced tannins are underpinned with a subtle refreshing acidity and core of red berry fruits. No problems with laying down a few bottles to see how this wine develops further. Cameron Douglas, New Zealand’s first Master Sommelier, gave it 93 points. Barbequed lamb tacos would be a tasty, uncomplicated pairing.  

    2019 Digger’s Law Pinot Noir LCBO #32405, $24.95

  • Experience Wine From UNESCO Site

    In 2001, UNESCO classified Portugal’s Douro River Valley as a World Heritage Site for the beauty of its landscape and natural state. Known as the oldest demarcated wine region in the world, the Douro offers a true landscape masterpiece created by the many generations that have lived on this land and perfected and preserved its culture and traditions. Over the centuries, people have developed a process of adapting the knowledge and techniques of viticulture in the Douro River valley which is now considered to be one of the most beautiful wine regions in the world. Its unique and imposing beauty with vineyards planted on traditional terraces, supported by centuries old stone retaining walls called socalcos, have become the keepers of its history, architecture and landscape.

    As the production of fortified Port wines has slowed down somewhat, Douro producers are in the fortunate position that the red grape varieties used for Port production are excellent for making full bodied dry red wines. The low yielding varietals of Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Barroca and Tinta Cao give us wines that exhibit intense colour and flavours with good levels of tannin.  

    Real Companhia Velha was founded on Sept. 10, 1756, by Royal decree and is Portugal’s oldest wine company. Its Evel Douro Red comes primarily from three of their best Quintas (vineyards) located around the town of Pinhao, considered to be the premium center of grape growing in the upper Douro region. Starting with a pronounced ruby red colour with violet tints, aromas of red berries, green tobacco, and vanilla from oak aging, lead to a medium body with soft tannins and a long finish. Pairing it with Churrasco, the Portugese term for grilled beef, would round out the total taste experience.

    2018 Evel Douro Red LCBO #190694, $15.95

  • Grab this Garnacha by the Bottles

    Garnacha is of course the Spanish name for Grenache, the noble red work horse grape of southern France. However, its origins are in Spain, specifically the Aragon district of Zaragoza, south-east of Rioja. The appellation of this Grenache is Calatayud, created in 1989, and is the place where the oldest Garnacha vines are grown. The OGV brand is produced from 100% old bush wines, some over 50 years old, growing at a cool elevation of 800-1000 meters above sea level. The significant diurnal day-to-nighttime temperature fluctuation promotes excellent flavor development in the grapes, while consistent gentle winds help temper the extreme summer heat. Fermentation takes place in cement tanks followed by 6 months in oak barrels. We encounter a sexy wine with silky palate. The aroma is a perfect intermingling of blackberries and cherries. It has an excellent length accented by warm tannins. While sipping nicely on its own, it will bring out the best characteristics of a tomato and bell pepper gazpacho, grilled octopus or roast chicken with a chorizo sausage and paprika stuffing. It was rated 90 points by Luis Gutierrez of robertparker.com. At a very affordable retail price of $16.95, you can afford to grab a case from LCBO Vintages to enjoy now or lay down for a few years to develop further complexity.

    2019 OGV Old Garnacha Vines LCBO # 13633, $16.95.