Harry's Blog

Easter is a favourite family feast, a get-together to enjoy friendship, food and drink. Before gathering around the dinner table, there’s the mandatory easter egg hunt. Watching the kids or grandkids scurry around the backyard looking for their treats is entertaining for the adults, especially for those who have conspired to hide the kiddies’ goodies creatively.        

Lamb is a perennial traditional Easter dish. We prefer roasted leg of lamb, best known for its tender meat, rich flavour, and religious symbolism. Classic seasonings include garlic, rosemary, and lemon. Side dishes such as roasted potatoes, asparagus, or gratin will round things out. What about the wine pairing? The combination of fat and gamey flavours plus the subtle, sweet juiciness of the meat and herb aromas require a complex, medium-bodied red wine. Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery is one of the best known and original wineries of the Niagara Peninsula’s craft wine movement. They also own extensive plantings of old vines, especially Baco Noir. Some go back as far as 1984. Dry with deep purple hues, notes of smoke, spices, cocoa and plum will match the meat beautifully. Happy Easter.       

Henry of Pelham Baco Noir Old Vines LCBO #459966, $19.95

At the opening ceremonies of the Suez Canal in Egypt on Nov. 17, 1869, Armand von Buhl was in attendance with most of Europe’s nobility and captains of commerce.

Riesling wines from the famous von Buhl estate located in Germany’s Pfalz growing region, were served to toast the engineering feat that would cut on average half of the traditional shipping time and distance instead of having to sail around the southern tip of Africa via the Cape of Good Hope. About the wines, the local papers wrote:

“They tasted splendid, in spite of the heat.” This was the crowning achievement in a long and varied career of the founder of the von Buhl estate. As vice president of the Bavarian legislature, Armand was accorded the title reichsrat, which, loosely translated, means privy councilor.

To honor his achievements in commerce, government, and winemaking, the von Buhl estate named its Riesling Kabinett, Armand. We are fortunate to have this wine released via LCBO Vintages after a long hiatus. Beautifully balanced between sensuous subtle sweetness and fresh acidity, notes of honey, apple and citrus will compliment, not overpower, lighter to medium dishes. With Easter just around the corner, we can think of nothing better than a pairing with ham. Take your choice of maple or pineapple glazing.

Sommeliers Choice Awards gave the wine 94 points. It’s also certified organic. Do yourself a favour and lay down a few bottles for 3 to 5 years and then experience the complex and hedonistic development only a top German Riesling can deliver.          

2023 Reichsrat von Buhl Armand Riesling Kabinett LCBO #45009, $26.95

Grüner Veltliner, pronounced Grooner Velt-Leaner, is Austria’s signature white grape variety. In North America, folks in the wine trade simply call it “Grooner.” It accounts for one-third of  Austria’s vineyard acreage and is hardly planted elsewhere.  Always dry, with a bright acidity and medium body, the bouquet gives us subtle notes of grapefruit and signature white pepper. Not just a warm weather sipper, it is drunk in copious quantities in restaurants, café’s and Heuriger (wine bars) all over Austria. Drink on its own or pair with lighter dishes including seafoods. But the real match made in Himmel (heaven) is Wiener Schnitzel. We are not talking about the standard schnitzels available everywhere. No more than a pounded, non-descript breaded cutlet made of pork and panfried – ho-hum! Real Wiener (Viennese) Schnitzel is only allowed to be made with veal. Pounded ever so thinly and dredged in egg and bread crumbs, it is deep fried and will be light, tender and delicate. And then to pair with Grüner Veltliner!!! Lenz Moser’s premium, limited production Prestige line of wines is meant for upscale retailers, such as LCBO Vintages as well as restaurants. Peter Moser, no relation, of Falstaff, Austria’s leading wine publication, gave it 90 points.

2024 Lenz Moser Prestige Grüner Veltliner LCBO #71233, $19.95 

The ancestral home of the immensely popular Sauvignon Blanc wine is France’s middle Loire River valley. With Sancerre the centre of production, no goat cheese should be allowed to be enjoyed without a cool glass of Sauvignon Blanc. Taken to New Zealand, the Kiwis planted huge acreages and exported record volumes of Sauvignon Blanc to the world so that the grape and the country are almost synonymous. The grape’s herbaceous, aromatic benchmark aromas and bone-dry taste are unmistakable and recognizable by most white wine lovers. 

Not to be left behind, North America is following the lead of producers from the Southern Hemisphere. This incudes the Niagara Peninsula with Henry of Pelham Family Estate stepping up to the plate to knock a winning Sauvignon Blanc out of the park. Gentle gooseberry, floral and citrus aromas gently waft from the glass. This gives way to a well-balanced, bone-dry pleasing palate and a mere 4 g/L residual sugar. The alcohol clocks in at a moderate 12.5%. Harkening back to France, soft goat cheese would be our first choice pairing. Broiled lobster tails dipped in garlic butter is a close second. Oh, by the way, there is currently a $2 price reduction in place.                     

2025 Heny of Pelham Sauvignon Blanc VQA LCBO #430546, $14.95 till March 29, regular price $16.95

The primary grape used in the production of the dynamic duo of the premium Piemontese wines, Barolo and Barbaresco, is Nebbiolo. It is unrivalled as the finest red grape varietal of Northern Italy and takes its name from the Italian word for fog, Nebbia. In the fall, the vine-covered hills, and there is literally no flat land here, will be covered in fog until late in the morning. The sun will burn off the late autumn mists and reveal a rich tapestry of gold and copper coloured vines with the snow-covered peaks of the Alps, in contrast, far in the background. The Patrizi winery is long established with extensive vineyard holdings within the premium Alba appellation. And Nebbiolo grape plantings figure prominently.  At the top end they produce Barolos and Barbarescos which require a lengthier time in the barrel and bottle to mature, with premium prices to boot. However, a straight Nebbiolo varietal is produced in order to offer consumers a more affordable and earlier approachable experience. Garnet red in colour, cherry, red fruits and violets dominate the bouquet. The mouth feel is structured with a smooth, pleasant and lengthy finish. Enjoy with most meats and strong cheeses.               

2023 Patrizi Nebbiolo D’Alba LCBO #25523, $22.95

With Italy in the middle of hosting the 2026 Winter Olympics, let’s focus on a new breed of full-bodied Italian red wine. Super Tuscan is a consumer term, not an official designation or appellation. A number of well-established, yet enterprising estate producers started planting international grape varieties in the 1970’s along Tuscany’s Mediterranean coastline. These included Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. Now considered the super stars of Italy, with prices to match, they are international in style yet have a distinct “Italianess” about them. Powerful, highly structured and flamboyant, they are the result of aging in a combination of new and previously filled oak barriques. The Macchiole estate, a key Super Tuscan producer, is located in the Bolgheri appellation which has proven itself to be the epicenter for this type of wine. Beautifully balanced with dark fruit, herbs, spices and violet notes, it is fresh and polished with a well-integrated, subtle, tannic structure. While it may be aged for up to ten years, it can be enjoyed now. Decant the wine and let it breath for half an hour before serving. It’s excellent value when compared to the triple digit prices of most icon Super Tuscans. Since the city of Milan is the co-host for the Winter Olympics, let’s pair this wine with the city’s traditional meat dish, Osso Buco. It also goes by the name, veal shanks Milanese, which are slow-braised with vegetables, wine and broth. This wine was scored 93 points by jebdunnick.com.

2023 Le Macchiole Bolgheri Rosso LCBO # 483412, $49.95

Valentine’s Day is upon us. It’s dedicated to St. Valentine, patron saint of lovers. Sweets galore plus wines and other alcoholic beverages are offered with heart-themed packaging. But there’s another Saint in town. Saint-Maurice is the patron of the infantry and is often depicted as a black Roman soldier who was martyred for refusing to persecute believers. In the Rh?ne region, 22 villages are allowed to carry their name, in this case, St. Maurice. Located in the southern Rh?ne, the label also lists “Terroirs les Oliviers” as the region was once an important source of olive oil production with extensive olive grove plantings. But severe frosts over the years have resulted in re-purposing the land to grape production. This typical Syrah Grenache blend delivers us an elegant red with aromas of red and black fruits, silky tannins and a long, lively finish. It’s certified organic. We would pair it with lamb Proven?al, a classic meat dish braised with flavours of southern France including tomatoes, garlic, olive oil; and herbs such as rosemary and thyme. James Suckling awarded the wine 92 points. 2023 was a memorable vintage of full-bodied reds with ability to age and develop greater complexity. Do not hesitate to lay down a few extra bottles.  

While most people tend to associate red wines with Spain, which I do love, I have taken a real liking to whites from the Rueda region grown along the Duero River of north central Spain. Forgoing the traditional Palomino grape variety which was used for ages to produce fortified wines, the emphasis lately has shifted to alternative styles. New winemaking techniques and styles of wines have been pushed to the forefront through the pioneering efforts of progressive local producers. The sleeping beauty awakened from its centuries long sleep is the Verdejo grape. Prime vineyards are planted mainly on sandy soils throughout Rueda, including some vines that are over 140 years old. With its similar style to Sauvignon Blanc, fermentation in temperature-controlled stainless steel and lees aging, we have a modern, food friendly wine. The end product ticks off the boxes today’s wine drinkers are looking for. Light yellow in the glass, this wine offers generous tropical fruit aromas. The mouth feel is gorgeous with textures of stone fruits and wet stone flavours lingering on the palate. Despite the double digit below zero temperatures these days, let’s lighten things up with the ultimate Spanish food match – seafood paella. There are lots of recipes available on the internet. Verdejo pairs magically with the assemblage of different textures and flavours of the key ingredients of rice, mussels, prawns, calamari and spices and don’t dare leave out the saffron.

2023 Carrasvinas Verdejo Rueda DO LCBO # 82073, $19.95.

This past May, we had the pleasure of visiting the fascinating Island of Sicily. While politically part of Italy, it could be a continent itself located at the crossroads of the Mediterranean Sea. The vast coastline sports hundreds of sandy beaches while the interior has a remarkable range of landscapes. Ancient Greek ruins are a testament to a rich and storied history that spans several millennia. But we must mention grape growing and wine making, a flourishing, major sector of the economy.

One of Sicily’s most important wineries located close to the capital city of Palermo is Cusumano. Harry was graciously hosted by Export Manager Maria Leone, pictured here.

An extensive tour of the winery was followed by a comprehensive tasting of their range of wines. One of my favourites wines was Cusumano’s premium Syrah/Nero D’Avola blend hailing from Tenuta (vineyard) Prestie e Pegni. It is located 10 km inland from the sea in the village of Monreale, also famous for its magnificent cathedral, an absolute must see if you are in the area. Old vines of Sicily’s dependable indigenous work horse Nero D’Avola grape are suited to the same ideal terroir and planting as the international favourite, Syrah. We were so happy to hear during our visit that LCBO Vintages had ordered this wine and it is now available at your favourite retail location.     .     

Giving it 92 points, esteemed journalist James Suckling commented: “A bright and juicy red with aromas of dark cherries, blueberries and mild spices. Medium-bodied with fine tannins. Balanced and delicious, with a flavorful, peppery finish.” So close to the sea, we recommend pairing with grilled tuna steaks. 

2022 Cusumano Benuara Prestie e Pegni Syrah/Nero D;Avola LCBO # 597138, $17.95

The House Wine brand is a line of VQA Ontario wines created by the Speck Brothers, owners of Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery. Their philosophy is to create serious wines but not have them taken too seriously and simply enjoy. It’s a blend of Baco Noir (the Specks are THE masters in Ontario of this grape) and Cabernet Sauvignon. Aromas of dark red berries and spice with hints of smoked meat deliver a long, smooth finish. What to pair? Montreal smoked meat piled high and sandwiched on deli rye with stone ground Dijon mustard added to put a little zip on your lip. And it’s $2 off till February 1. Ottawa-based journalist Vic Harradine in his Wine Current blog awarded the wine 92 points. 

Everyone loves a bargain, specially after Christmas.

Red House Wine Co. Baco Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO # 279521 is $11.95 till Feb. 1, then back to regular pricing of $13.95.  

First, take the history and winemaking skills of Bordeaux’s Néel-Chombart family which goes back to the 16^th century. They are owners of Chäteau Lamothe de Haux. Then we have the Speck brothers (Henry of Pelham), original pioneering family winemakers in the Niagara Peninsula. A collaboration between the two could only be ideal. Cabernet Sauvignon is the world’s most widely planted red wine variety. And Bordeaux, France, is its epicenter. Start with one hundred percent Cabernet Sauvignon from prime vineyards situated on Right Bank clay and limestone based slopes that are at least 20 years old. After fermentation, ten months aging in oak barriques are followed by another two years of bottle maturation. In the background, the Speck brothers regularly liaise and consult with the Chombarts on all aspects of the wine’s production. 

Deciding on a brand name, Cave de Mystère, was easy as there is a great story behind it. The  cellars of Chäteau Lamothe de  Haux date back to the 1700s, when kilometers of limestone caves beneath the vineyards were excavated to provide building materials for the construction of the city of Bordeaux. These caves have provided shelter since prehistoric times, and the walls bear the marks of both primitive tools and the pickaxes of 18th-century French labourers. The dug out caves provide, fortuitously, the perfect underground cellars ideal for ageing.

Complex with black currant and sandalwood aromas, well integrated tannins and a long finish are highlights of this Bordeaux red from the classic vintage of 2020. Enjoy with your favourite meat dish. 

2020 Chombart & Speck Cave Mystère Cabernet Sauvignon LCBO #39096, $19.95

One of the world’s icon dessert wines is Hungary’s Tokaji, pronounced Tow-Kye. After over four decades of being stuck politically behind the iron curtain, the Royal Tokaji Wine Company was founded in 1990. Co-founder was the world’s most widely read winewriter, Hugh Johnson. His mission was to resurrect this classic style of wine that had lost its magic under inefficient communist government mass production. Quantity consistently trumped quality.       

A dry table wine made up of a fermented cuvée of local white, indigenous Hungarian grapes is the starting point. A second fermentation is created by adding the desired number of puttonyos (a measure of shriveled aszu grapes affected by the friendly botrytis cinerea fungus). The more puttonyos, the sweeter the resulting wine. Our wine has 5 puttonyos. The fermentation is aided by a friendly cellar-born fungus which covers cellar walls, deep below ground level. It’s a miracle of nature, too, unique to the Tokaji region, where, at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog rivers, fall mists promote the formation of noble rot on the grapes. The indigenous fungus does the job with its particular yeasts and bacteria working to assist in giving birth to the unctuous dessert wine the world has come to appreciate and love.

It's a beautiful wine to sip on its own, with the appropriate background music, especially when in a contemplative mood. Think rhapsody rather than rap. It’s also a great partner to fois gras, but we think the perfect match made in heaven, or in the cheese shop, is blue-veined cheese. Then again, it’s the ideal dessert in liquid form. There probably isn’t a dessert this Christmas season that won’t match Tokaji. Spicy, beautifully balanced with a sweet, fresh finish, enjoy it now. But it will age beautifully for years. The 2O24  International Wine & Spirit Competition scored it 96 points.      

2018 Royal Tokaji Blue Label 5 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszu 500 ml, LCBO # 48262, $64.95.