Harry's Blog

The River Lot starts as a spring in the Languedoc Roussillon region of south-central France. Flowing 500 km northwest, it eventually becomes a wide, meandering, slow river wending its way and eventually emptying into the Garonne River a hundred km south of Bordeaux. Looping like a dizzy python, it flows past imposing castles and diverse, hilly outcroppings of limestone that act as natural heat reservoirs. Nothing seems to disturb the tranquility of this serenely wild, sparsely populated region. The area west of Cahors for about fifty km on both sides of the river is the original home of the Malbec grape. The appellation is Cahors, taking its name after the medieval city of the same name. There are forty-five wine-growing villages in the Cahors appellation. Starting in the Middle Ages, and due to its intense color, it was called the “black wine.” It also found its way into the wines of other regions for the purpose of “beefing up” the colour and providing more weight on the palate. Cahors has 4,600 hectares of Malbec, miniscule compared to the 58,000 hectares grown there prior to being wiped out in the 1860s by that pesky, no-holds-barred, and totally destructive aphid called phylloxera. All along the banks of the River Lot one will encounter walnut and fruit trees. The vineyards are neatly planted on three alluvial terraces at various elevations above the river’s banks. An increasing number of Cahors producers are now including the Malbec varietal on the label. Merlot and Tannat are also grown here and are allowed to make up to thirty percent of the blend. 

A great food wine, Cahors matches a cornucopia of regional delicacies including truffles, fois gras, grilled Caussnard lamb and black bass caught freshly out of the Lot river, and the regional cheese specialty, Rocamadour. Since we do not have the luxury of flying to France, have your neighborhood gourmet grocer help you select and substitute local equivalent dishes from its own repertoire of products.   

French wine wizard and merchant extraordinaire, Gérard Betrand, has tapped into Cahors and is offering it to wine lovers around the world including, fortunately, LCBO Vintages. James Suckling scored it 90 points.

2021 Gérard Betrand Héritage Cahors Malbec LCBO #43536, $21.95.

The history behind this famous pre-midday cocktail is much disputed. The most plausible link points to bartender Frank Meier who is supposed to have created it at the Hotel Ritz in Paris. The Herres winery has come to the rescue and it’s available on a continuous basis at your favourite LCBO location. Mimosa lovers may enjoy this yummy imported sparkling cocktail pre-mixed. It’s no longer necessary to go through the time-consuming exercise of blending orange juice and sparkling wine hoping to hit the right combination of flavour and sparkle. The effervescence brings a liveliness as well as balance to the citrus elements. Enjoy, whenever the occasion calls, not just for brunch but also on the patio or deck during these sultry August days of summer.

Romeo Mimosa LCBO 14388, $12.95     

The Viognier grape is responsible for some of the most expensive white wines in France. At home on the Rhône River Valley, we are talking about Chateau Grillet with its own appellation covering only 3.5 hectares. Yalumba Winery, based in Australia’s Barossa Valley, took the initiative over 40 year ago to plant this varietal in the southern hemisphere.

Yalumba is considered to be a leader in growing this varietal in the New World, specifically in the neighboring Eden Valley with its higher, cooler elevations. The vineyards are farmed and certified sustainable.  Fermentation takes place spontaneously with wild yeasts. No commercial strains here. Vegan friendly, it is bottled under their Y Series, a collection of iconic classic varietals produced in limited quantities. We are fortunate to have their Y Series Viognier available on LCBO shelves on a continuous basis.  With a straw colour and medium-bodied texture, it bursts with heady aromas of melon, honeysuckle and white flowers. Aging on the lees gives us a complex tasting palate with a lingering, silky finish.  While delicious to be enjoyed as an aperitif, we can think of nothing better on these hot, sultry summer days or evenings than to pair it with a chilled, rich seafood salad  And don’t skimp on the lobster or crabmeat!

2023 Yalumba Y Series Viognier LCBO #470062, $13.95

France is home to the huge Rhône wine growing region. Its sloped vineyards produce gargantuan quantities of primarily red wine. They straddle both banks of the mighty Rhône river as it makes its way to the Mediterranean sea. Within the smaller regional appellation of Côtes du Rhône Villages, 22 villages are allowed to be specifically identified if 100% of the production comes from within that village’s boudaries. Cairanne is one of those villages one will find at the top of ”Villages” ranking nestled in the heart of the southern Rhone valley. The exceptional plateau-based terroir sports pebbles and sandy soils giving us well balanced, age worthy wines.  A regional phenomenon is the Mistral, a wind that rushes down the Rhône River valley and provides a welcoming cooling effect in this otherwise extremely hot climate.

Vidal-Fleury is a highly respected regional producer. Founded in 1781, it is the oldest continuously operating winery in the Rhône Valley. This wine is a blend of the local favourite varieties of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. However, Grenache dominates most aspects of this wine - dark chocolate, plum and a cherry nose finishing with pepper. There is great structure on the palate crowned by a smooth, firm length due to the well integrated tannins. 

May be aged further for 5-7 years. Rare red meats simply roasted are the perfect match. But let’s be more adventurous and go for a Provençal lamb stew. Typical herbs used in Provençal cooking such as thyme, rosemary, oregano and basil provide the perfect foil to this wine’s peppery notes..

Cheese wise, let’s go local pairing this Cairanne village production with Oka cheese from Québec.   

2022 J .Vidal-Fleury Cairanne LCBO #43528, $24.95

Everybody loves to pull out a big bottle of wine and pour the contents to the assembled group. A magnum holds 1500 ml, or two standard bottle sizes. It’s perfect for larger summer get-togethers. Having a bigger quantity means not having to switch bottles if you offer a selection of foods that complement the wine in question. Dry rosé is the rage these days and Gérard Bertrand is the international market leader with his Côte des Roses Rosé brand. Hailing from select vineyards located along the French Mediterranean coast, this is the benchmark for dry, refreshing, medium-bodied, aromatic rosé. It is achieved by taking red wines and leaving them on the skins for less time, just enough to get the pink hues we are so captivated by. The Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault grape varieties that make up this blend give us stone fruit notes in the bouquet underpinned by complex, medium red wine texture in the body. Serving it well-chilled makes it a winner on its own, or pair with pink coloured foods: unthawed cocktail shrimp rings that every supermarket carries with their pink tails and pinkish skin. Dip them in a cocktail sauce, take a sip of rosé, and you’ve got a marriage made in the mouth; or skinless, baked salmon filets with their pink flesh topped with a mango salsa. With the 1500 ml of wine, there’s plenty to go around. It’s a Vintages one time purchase, so keep and re-use the distinctive bottle with its rose embossed base design for decorative purposes around the house.

2024 Gérard Betrand Côte des Roses 1500 ml LCBO # 490912, $38.95

Home turf for Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery is the Niagara Peninsula’s Short Hills Bench growing region. But what’s so special about this VQA classified sub appellation?  Considered a cool climate wine growing region, it has been identified for its distinguishing characteristics of soils, typography and micro-climate.  Located on the Niagara Escarpment, it is basically a plateau made up of very gently rolling hills. The soils are silt, loam and clay based that force the vine’s roots to drive deep to search for nutrients and water, a real benefit especially during dry growing seasons. Breezes from Lake Ontario create good air flow. Combined with ample sunshine and heat, the growing season is long and protracted allowing the grapes to grow and ripen at a leisurely pace. This allows the grape’s natural sugar levels and acidity to become more naturally aligned. Good water drainage is provided by the valley of 12 Mile Creek and smaller streams. Pinot Noir, known as the “heartbreak grape” due to its finicky nature, has found its home here. This top tier reserve bottling is even more special as the grapes hail from their Old Farm Block with the plants averaging 25 years of age. Hand picked with low yields, the berries are moved by gravity while the winemaking emphasizes gentle handling using only free run juice. European oak aging for ten months brings out a multitude of red fruits, cassis and vanilla in the bouquet. The mouth feel is elegant with long lingering notes of berries and spices. Rick VanSickle awarded it 93 points.

While a few more years of bottle aging will allow the wine to develop more complexity and depth, it can be enjoyed now. Decant for half an hour and serve with barbequed smoked sausages.  

2023 Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Pinot Noir LCBO #657874, $47.95

The aromas are unmistakable and seductive as you wait to take your favourite cut of meat off the grill – sweet smoke. The smoke contains a number of volatile compounds, mainly polyphenols, such as tannins, that are released into the air and create that unique smell. Contributing is the marbling and the barbeque sauce with its tomato sauce, spices, vinegar and sugars that penetrate the meat and then are released via the very high temperatures of grilling.

While we tend to think of full-bodied red wines as the ideal pairing, certain specialty beers are ready to step up to the challenge. In this case, it’s smoke beer, called Rauchbier, a specialty of the Bavarian city of Bamberg in Germany. Aecht Schlenkerla is the icon producer with a history going back to 1405 and is one of the few exporters of this specialty brew. The smoky, full-bodied flavours come from following very old brewing and malting traditions. Selected barley is malted at the brewery and kilned over a fire of beechwood logs. The result is a dark, bottom fermented beer with intense smoky aromas and flavours. Not for the faint of heart, enjoy with burgers or your favourite cut of dark meat. The alcohol is a modest 5.1% alc./vol.        

Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier 500 ml LCBO # 409110, $5.05

One of the world’s most popular white grapes is Pinot Grigio. Referred to some as the “vodka of white wines” because it’s available everywhere, an uncomplicated quaffer. The same grape producing wines with more structure is called Pinot Gris. It’s the key style of high quality white wine in France’s Alsace, Germany’s Baden region, and, in this case, New Zealand, where it’s a favourite. During our travels to New Zealand, we were told by our Kiwi friends that they enjoy Pinot Gris as a quality alternative to the oversaturated presence of their benchmark Sauvignon Blancs.

Pinot Gris is a key member of New Zealand’s SOHO Family Vineyards portfolio and is sold under the Ziggy label. Pete Turner, winemaker, had this to say: “Here to save us from mundane Pinot Gris, Ziggy is an exuberant style that will take your tastebuds on a hedonistic ride into another Pinot Gris universe. Enter a colourful nose laden with white florals, citrus zest and stone fruits. The palate is stacked with white peach, poached pear, pastry and a dash of ginger spice. The real magic of this free spirit is the generous palate weight and ethereal texture. Finishing off-dry with a very light smack of residual sweetness. Unparalleled length will carry you off to another dimension.

Sam Kim, highly-respected Kiwi wine journalist, awarded it 93 points. We are leaning toward Ziggy as a delicious complement to a cool, stuffed crab salad roll on a hot summer’s day on the patio. Or, enjoy on its own.

2023 SOHO Ziggy Pinot Gris LCBO # 536169, $21.95

It’s Canada’s 158^th birthday on July 1. A long weekend is required, and deserved, to celebrate all our true and native land has to offer. Whether at the cottage, at the campsite, on the patio, deck or at poolside, we will gather with friends and family to share each other’s company and count our blessings. Of course, food and beverages, including red and white wines will be part of the picture. And what a coincidence - red and white are the colours of our nation’s Maple Leaf Flag.   

Niagara Peninsula’s Speck Brothers, Paul, Matt and Daniel, created a line of easy-going, excellent value wines meant to be enjoyed on their own or paired with a wide range of foods. Tongue in cheek, the brand name they chose, Sibling Rivalry, harkens back to their days growing up and the antics that siblings go through as they journey through life together. This included sore muscles and getting dirt under their fingernails while having to shovel plant vines during their summer holidays on dad’s newly acquired farm in Pelham outside of St. Catharines. Their efforts paid off and Wine Align in 2024 designated their Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery as the “#1 Winery in Ontario.”     

Sibling Rivalry Red, a Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Gamay blend is deep red, delicious, dry and full of berry flavours. Nicely balanced and uncomplicated with mild tannins, it’s the perfect match for juicy burgers straight off the barbeque. LCBO #126151, $13.95

The white partner for this holiday weekend is Sibling Rivalry White. Harmonious and aromatic with tropical fruit notes, this characterful white is primarily a blend of Riesling, Chardonnay with a dash of Gewürztraminer adding exotic flavourful nuances. Thoroughly enjoyable on its own, but pairs nicely with lighter protein-based fare such as salads with a seafood or chicken base. LCBO #126144, $13.95  

Happy Canada Day! 

Tempranillo is the work horse grape of Spain’s premier region for full-bodied red wines, Rioja. And CUNE winery ranks as one of Rioja’s top red wine producers with extensive estate vineyard holdings. With a Reserva classification, according to Spanish wine regulations for Rioja, the wine must be aged for a minimum of three years with at least one year in oak barrels and six months in the bottle. Extra aging is the name of the game with CUNE winery since this LCBO release is vintage 2019. This extended aging allows the wine’s tannins, which are responsible for that puckering sensation in the mouth, to smooth out. Garnet in colour, in the nose we encounter forest fruits. Also red berries and the signature vanilla tones stemming from the barrique aging, primarily in American oak barriques, which are favoured by Spanish producers. In addition to Tempranillo, fifteen percent of the blend comes from locally grown Grenache, Graciano and Mazuela grapes. In the mouth, the body is medium weighted, bright, long and friendly. James Suckling, respected American-based wine journalist, awarded this wine 93 points.

Pairing with Manchego cheese would create a tasty all-Spanish choice. Barbeque season is finally upon us, but we are all experiencing sticker shock as we look at the meat department prices in our supermarkets. No price relief at our neighborhood butchers, either. Our fall back choice of cut to conquer our meat cravings at more reasonable prices is flank steak. It is a long flat cut of beef with a significant grain known for its chewiness and thinness. Marinated for a few hours, and then prepared medium rare, CUNE Reserva red ticks off all the boxes of outdoor meat and wine enjoyment.                 

2019 CUNE Rioja Reserva LCBO # 417659, $26.95

Think about dad. His whole life he has helped provide for his family. Letting go is part of the legacy and memories of fathers – that first step; letting go of the seat and pushing you off on your bicycle; waving goodbye as you step onto the school bus; entering a school building for the first time; seeing you off to college or university; joining your daughter’s hand with their life partner-to-be at the wedding ceremony. The list of those caring gestures is endless. We have every reason to be grateful to dads throughout the year. One special day a year is never enough, but the fast-paced, hectic nature of life is all-consuming. Every son or daughter will have their own special way of thanking dad on Father’s Day with hugs, a gift, dining out or celebrating at home. 

Since the warmer months are approaching, albeit a bit slower this year, a quality dry rosé would be a most appropriate and appreciated gesture for dad. He can choose to enjoy it on its own, or match with an appropriate dish. Last night, yours truly, a dad named Harry, enjoyed Harry Rosé with grilled rainbow trout filets. The recipe is quite simple. Spread the non-skin side with a mixture of stoneground mustard, some balsamic vinegar and maple syrup and wrap in tinfoil. Ten minutes on the flame for the skin side, flip and grill the other side for five minutes. We served it with a couscous salad (made from scratch) with chopped cucumbers, sweet red peppers, cherry tomatoes, green onion (red onion works too) and enough rice vinegar with quarter cup of olive oil to moisten the mixture. Salt and pepper to taste.  A delicious side dish!

New Zealand SOHO winery’s inspiration for picking the brand name Harry for its White Collection Rosé was “people with purpose and charm.” That fits the bill for many fathers. Also, a lot of well-known international personalities - think Prince Harry, Harry Stiles, Harry Connick Jr., and the fictitious Harry Potter. Thanks to all the dads. We love you.        

2024 SOHO White Collection Harry Rosé LCBO #19545, $21.95

The words rosé wine conjure up images of an easy-going lifestyle synonymous with the Mediterranean. Al fresco dining, that is “out of doors”, whether on the patio, deck or at the picnic table, has been embraced wholeheartedly by Canadians. Given the late spring, summer, and early fall warm Canadian weather window, we are up for the enjoyment of rosés solo or paired with tasty, lighter fare. And who best to supply the market with dry, delicious, aromatic rosés than France’s Gérard Bertrand. He is based in the sun-soaked Languedoc region of southern France with its vast vineyards of which the key grape variety is Grenache. It is the pearl, or perle, in French, of a Mediterranean necklace collection of rosés. The precious pearl analogy is reinforced with the special string of jewels embossed on the bottle created by French designer Chantal Thomass. The versatility of this wine makes it a wonderful match for a wide range of dishes and ingredients. Think food with fresh flavours – seafood, lighter pastas or salads with goat cheese.

2024 Gérard Bertrand Perles de Grenache Rosé LCBO # 556209, $19.95