Harry's Blog

Tokaji Aszu is the only wine, other than Champagne, that must go through a second fermentation to end up in its final, one-of-a-kind state. A dry table wine made up of a fermented cuvée of local white, indigenous Hungarian grapes of Harslevelu, Furmint, and Yellow Muscat, is the starting point. Then, a second fermentation is created by adding the desired number of puttonyos, (a measure of shriveled aszu grapes affected by the friendly botrytis cinerea fungus), to neutral wooden casks called gönci, containing the base wine. The more puttonyos, the sweeter the resulting wine. This wine has five. The second fermentation is aided by the friendly cellar born fungus, cladosporum cellerae, which covers the labyrinth of cellar walls, deep below ground level. It’s a miracle of nature, too, unique to Hungary’s Tokaji region, where, at the confluence of the Tisza and Bodrog Rivers, fall mists promote the formation of noble rot on the grapes. The casks act as wooden wombs, so to speak. The indigenous fungus does the job with its particular yeasts and bacteria working to assist in giving birth to the unctuous dessert wine the world has come to appreciate and love. This can take anywhere between eleven months to two years. By law, the finished Tokaji wine must age at least two years in the cask and one year in the bottle before being released for sale. It can only be produced in exceptional years such as 2017 as is the case here. It is a beautiful wine to sip on its own, with the appropriate background music, especially when in a contemplative mood. Think rhapsody rather than rap. A great partner to fois gras, but we think the perfect match made in heaven, or in the cheese shop, is blue-veined cheese. Then again, it’s the ideal dessert in liquid form. It’s the perfect gift for the real wine afficionado in your family this holiday season. Can be laid down for 10 years, even longer. Wine Spectator magazine awarded it 93 points.

2017 Royal Tokaji Red Label 5 Puttonyos Tokaji Aszu LCBO # 959031, $69.95

Pinot Noir is called the “Heartbreak Grape” because it is a finicky varietal to grow. It likes a cooler climate for a long, extended growing season which translates to wines that are elegant, not overpowering and wonderful for pairing with a variety of foods. Not a problem in its home turf in France, especially Burgundy. But in the New World, where temperatures are considerably warmer, the best places or terroirs are where ocean currents prevail. Or higher elevations. California has been very successful in cultivating Pinot Noir. One of the “cooler” places is Lake County, north of Napa and Sonoma. Here, the Shannon family has a special site for Pinot Noir in its eight kilometer Long Valley Ranch.

The colour is signature garnet with subtle aromas of oak and red berry fruits. The palate is classic mid weight Burgundy style followed by a beautiful vanilla and dried berry fruit finish. Wine Enthusiast magazine in its September 1, 2022 issue gave it 92 points. Enjoy with softer cheeses such as Brie, Camembert. For something heartier go the beef stew route. The classic benchmark stew is none other than a French-inspired Boeuf Bourgignon.        

2020 Clay Shannon Lake County Long Valley Ranch Pinot Noir LCBO #38040, $29.95

Heading south on France’s mighty Rhône River to its delta at the Mediterranean Sea, the left bank is home to some of the most prestigious and well-known Rhône appellations. Think Crozes Hermitage, Hermitage or Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The same grape varieties of Syrah and Grenache that are the basis of these appellations will be found in less expensive wines with the Côtes du Rhone designation. Côtes means slopes, and grape plantings located on these locations mean better exposure to the sun and soil drainage. However, the Ferraton family, esteemed growers and winemakers with sites in all the premium appellations along the Rhône River, will use some of these top drops for blending and raising the taste and quality profile of their entry level wines. The colour is garnet and ruby with ripe red fruits and hints of spice in the nose. Fine tannins and great length characterize the palate. Lay down for a year or two, if you wish, to develop more complexity. But just thinking about it, we’re salivating over serving classic, smoky Texas style ribs with this Ferraton Samorëns Côtes du Rhône.    

2023 Ferraton Père & Fils Samorëns Côtes du Rhône LCBO #168708, $17.95

From Hammeken Cellars, the same Spanish producer of the immensely popular Radio Boka range of wines, wine lovers may enjoy something quite different and unique. The trees in Ontario are finishing their bright orange fall foliage. The current LCBO Vintages release lists a new wine offering, with a distinct colour, namely one with orange hues. Orange wine is also known as skin-contact or skin-fermented white wine. For this range, the grape skins of the popular Spanish Viura grape are not removed but stay in contact with the juice for an extended period of time that is more typical with red wines. It actually is nothing new and has ancient origins, especially in the middle East where white wines were traditionally fermented and given extended skin exposure in buried amphoras. The result brings out extra depth, texture and flavours characterised with orange or amber hues.

Hailing from central Spain’s expansive Tierra de Castilla region, it’s certified organic and vegan friendly. Exhibiting white flowers, citrus, mineral and herbal tea flavours in the nose, the body is full with a balancing refreshing acidity. Orange wine is stunning with Indian curry, particularly curry blends rich in turmeric, cardamom and/or cinnamon.  Also goes beautifully with roast chicken and Moroccan cuisine.

2023 Nanit Orange Wine LCBO #39186, $20.95

The sale of Prosecco sparkling wine from Italy has exploded world wide in recent years. Produced by the Charmat Method in large tanks instead of single bottle fermentation, the reasonable price combined with premium quality are a winning combination. While it must be produced from the Glera grape, it can be grown in the nine provinces of Veneto. But producer Val d’Oca’s Prosecco hails from the much, much smaller premium hillside Valdobbiadene region located in the province of Treviso. The Superiore designation guarantees its authenticity from Valdobbiadene. Also, it is vintage dated, called Millesimato in Italian, rarely the case with most Proseccos. In 2019, the hills and valleys of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site primarily due to the region's central role in the establishment and production of Prosecco. The alcohol clocks in at a comfortable 11.5% alc./vol. The extra dry designation equates to a low 13 grams per litre of residual sugar. Aromatic and crisp, it brings to mind yellow apple, pear, white peach, and apricot notes. Tasting fresh and light, enjoy as you would any other quality sparkling wine.

Val d’Oca Prosecco DOCG Superiore LCBO #340570, $18.95

Professor Dr. Lenz Moser III is well-known for his contributions to vine training and trellising systems, particularly for the cultivation of the Grüner Veltliner grape variety. His trellising system is called the "Lenz Moser" system and involves the use of high training stakes or wires. This allows the vines to grow vertically ensuring efficient management of the plant. It aims to maximize sunlight exposure and airflow in the vineyard, promoting grape ripening and reducing the risk of disease. The initial goal was specifically aimed at increasing yields and growing the grape more efficiently for his own winery. The system is now widely used by Austrian grape growers.    

Gruner Veltliner pronounced Grooner Velt-Leaner, is Austria’s signature white grape variety. In fact, it accounts for one-third of  Austria’s vineyards and is hardly planted elsewhere.  Always dry, with a bright acidity and medium body, the bouquet gives us subtle notes of grapefruit and signature white pepper when swirled. It’s a great summer sipper that is drunk in copious quantities in restaurants, café’s and Heuriger (wine bars) all over Austria. Drink on its own or pair with lighter dishes including seafoods. But the real match made im Himmel (heaven) is Wiener Schnitzel. We are not talking about the standard schnitzels available everywhere. No more than a pounded, non-descript breaded cutlet made of pork and pan fried – ho-hum! Real Wiener (Viennese) Schnitzel is only allowed to be made with veal. Pounded ever so thinly and dredged in egg and bread crumbs, it is deep fried and will be light, tender and delicate. And then to pair with Grüner Veltliner!!! Lenz Moser’s premium, limited production Prestige line of wines is meant for upscale retailers, such as LCBO Vintages as well as restaurants.

2023 Lenz Moser Prestige Grüner Veltliner LCBO # 71233, $19.95

The Merlot grape pronounced “Mare-Low,” is one of the wine world’s top reds. Whether sold as a single varietal or blended to soften up or make a wine more approachable and drinkable earlier, it has humble origins. Merle is the word for blackbird in French. In old French, Merlot is supposed to derive from the word for young blackbird and the color of the grape. We shouldn’t dwell on small, though, as it is responsible for some of the most expensive wines on the planet—think of Château Petrus from Bordeaux’s Pomerol appellation.

The Merlot grape has found the perfect home in Washington State. It accounts for one fifth of the state’s grape production. It ripens well in hot dry summers in inland vineyards sheltered from the Pacific Ocean by the Cascade mountains. Characterized by its softness on the palate, wine drinkers look forward to being seduced by the ripe plum, blackberry and chocolate notes in both the bouquet and taste. Due to the soft tannins and medium body, it lends itself perfectly to pairing with turkey and a side of savoury sage/herb stuffing this Thanksgiving weekend. Skyfall Washington State Merlot is a benchmark for the variety and ticks off all the boxes. Wine Enthusiast magazine featured it as a BEST BUY in its Sept.1, 2023 edition.  

2019 Skyfall Washington State Merlot LCBO #39252, $18.95

Located in the western region of Australia’s State of Victoria, Best’s Wines Great Western is one of Australia’s “best kept” winery secrets. Found in the heart of its premium higher elevation Grampian’s wine growing area, it was founded in 1866. This family-owned and operated property is home to plantings of some of the oldest and rarest vines on earth going back to 1868. This includes Shiraz for which their “Bin No.1” bottlings are an Australian benchmark. Produced from Best’s own vineyards as well as trusted local growers, the wine is meticulously crafted with the same attention to detail as their premium flagship range of wines.  As a confirmation of this wine’s provenance, it garnered a big score of 94 by Campbell Matheson in his July 11, 2023 edition of www.winecompanion.com.au published in Australia.

Food wise, any meat dish would pair perfectly, but we would invite you match this Shiraz with beef carpaccio. Garnish the paper thin slices of ultra-fresh raw beef with arugula and drizzle it with a Dijon balsamic vinaigrette, then top with a fine sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. The wine’s black pepper and peppercorn notes should seamlessly accent the finely grained texture of the beef.

2021 Best’s Bin # 1 Great Western Shiraz LCBO #222323, $19.95

RELAX Riesling has been a LCBO listing for a long, long time. Not only is it the #1 imported Riesling in Ontario, but all over Canada. Consumers may save $2 off every bottle purchased from Sept.15 to Oct.12.  At last count, it is carried by 651 LCBO retail outlets which is almost 100% distribution. From Moosonee in the north to Pelee Island in the south, from Hawkesbury on the Quebec border to Keewatin on the Manitoba border it sits prominently on store shelves. With the above-mentioned savings carrying on into the Thanksgiving Day weekend, why not pick up a few bottles to accompany your family’s turkey cravings.

What makes RELAX Riesling a great pairing is its ability to perfectly compliment the juiciness of the meat, whether dark or white, together with the herbed stuffing and cranberry dressing. The beautiful balance between crisp acidity and a hint of sweetness adds a delicious touch to the big bird while its minerality keeps your taste buds alert. Have a happy, memorable and delicious Thanksgiving but remember those less fortunate than ourselves and make a donation to your local food bank.   

RELAX Riesling 750 ml LCBO #621888, $12.50 (till Oct. 12), regular price $14.50.

Munich Oktoberfest, the original, and largest in the world, takes place this year from September 21 to October 4. First held in 1810, it celebrated the marriage between Crown Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese. Six million visitors from around the world will gather to celebrate in downtown Munich on the Theresienwiese (Therese’s meadow), named in honour of the bride. It covers 34.5 ha and is accessible by its own subway station.  At 12 noon sharp on the first day of Oktoberfest, the Lord Mayor of Munich will tap the first keg of beer with as few strokes as possible. The record for the least number is held by His Worship, Christian Ude, at two strokes in 2005. In 1951, Lord Mayor Thomas Wimmer required 19 attempts. "Ozapft is!” is declared (it’s tapped). Only then are the tents, some holding upwards of 10,000 revelers, allowed to start serving beer and food.

We don’t have to go to Munich to enjoy the very same beer that’s served there. The iconic Hofbräu Oktoberfestbier is now available for a limited time at your local LCBO retail store. On your way home, also stop by your local supermarket and pick up your favourite sausages, Bavarian mustard, sauerkraut and buns and you will be able to celebrate your own Oktoberfest. Prosit (cheers)! Oh, and don’t forget to download Bavarian Oktoberfest music to round out the experience.

Hofbräu Oktoberfestbier 500 mL LCBO # 84889, $3.95.

Stella is the Latin word for star. It also shows up occasionally as a woman’s given name. Do we know any Stella’s. How about Stella McCartney, daughter to Beatle Sir Paul McCartney, and well-known fashion designer in her own right. When we went to New Zealand a few years ago looking to line up a Kiwi winery for our portfolio, we were attracted by the unique embodiment of a passion for life, culture and entertainment and their avant-garde brand name of SOHO. Rachel Carter, winery owner, chose the name Stella for their premium Sauvignon Blanc. Her inspiration was women with classic confidence, sexy femininity plus a whiff of romance thrown in.

While SOHO is based on Waiheke Island, a forty-minute boat ride from the capital city Auckland, grapes for this wine are sourced from their own Carter Family Vineyards and other select boutique estates on South Island’s Marlborough region. Delicious zest fruit meets gorgeous minerality. There is a luscious concentration on the palate of pure stone fruits and lime. The long finish is balanced with a vibrant acidity.       

France’s Loire region is the ancestral homeland of Sauvignon Blanc and the classic pairing there is goat’s cheese, called Chevre. Go to you local cheese shop and have them recommend a quality soft goat cheese. Top it with a fig spread. Sip and savour.

New Zealand journalist Sam Kim gave a score of 95 points.

2023 SOHO Stella Sauvignon Blanc LCBO # 554311, $20.95

France’s longest river, the Loire, meanders slowly for almost one thousand kilometers from its source in the Massif Central to its estuary on the Atlantic coast near the city of Nantes. Over 80,000 hectares of vines, primarily white, grow along the last stretch of 350 kilometers. This is the land of immense woods, countless orchards, fertile fields, and a diverse variety of vineyards. It has been said that the Loire is a queen loved by kings. In fact, the French monarchs, all keen hunters, were attracted to the extensive forests along the Loire. It is here where the great châteaux of France can be found—Chambord with its 440 rooms and Chenonceau built right over the Cher River tributary, as well as Angers, Chaumont, and Amboise, where, coincidently, Leonardo da Vinci’s remains are buried. All architectural masterpieces.

Vast acreages, toward the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, of the Melon de Bourgogne grape are used to produce the ever-popular, seafood accompanying Muscadet-de-Sèvre-et-Maine. Muscadet specialist, Chéreau-Carré, is one of the largest vineyard owners with 324 acres which incudes their flagship property, Château de Chasseloir. While Muscadets are traditionally drunk young and fresh, a premium bottling with extended bottle age on spent yeasts, called “sur lie,” results in a creamier texture and yeasty flavours. A favourite regional dish, called Moules Frites, is made by flash cooking mussels in a splash of Muscadet wine and tossing them with shallots and green herbs accompanied with French Fries.

Roger Voss of Wine Enthusiast Magazine rated this wine with 92 points.

2020 Château de Chasseloir Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie LCBO# 35904, $21.95