Harry's Blog

One of the wine world’s most famous and iconic wines is Essencia from Hungary’s Tokaji region. The ultimate dessert wine, it is produced in minute quantities. It has an almost unlimited longevity. In fact, giving this bottling 97 points and calling it “an otherworldly feat of nature,” Robert Parker’s Neal Martin recommended drinking it through to the year 2100.  Essencia is the fermented liquid gold that very slowly oozes from bins of individually hand-picked indigenous grapes raisined by the friendly fungus, botrytis. A skilled picker would be lucky to harvest 10 kgs of these grapes in a day. The juice slowly accumulates in the bottom of the vat by the gentle pressure of the grapes’ own weight and pours like rich honey. It is essentially the concentrated essence of the ripest grapes. The yeasts have a near hopeless task of trying to transform the extremely high sugar levels into alcohol. After fermenting seven years in glass demijohns, only 4% alc./vol. was achieved while clocking in at a mind-blowing 469 gm/l residual sugar. The color is deep gold with a hint of amber. Fresh, ripe peaches on the nose pave the way for complex honeyed, spicy, ginger notes and a background presence of botrytis. Full but graceful to taste, it is intensely concentrated, rich and sweet, and balanced by a taunt acidity. 2008 Essencia is offered as a single bottle (375 ml) in a red lacquer case with crystal sipping spoon. The spoon was designed exclusively for Royal Tokaji, enabling 25 1-tablespoon pours per bottle. Only 12 bottles were allocated for the Ontario market out of a total production of 2,906 bottles. From a rare and extraordinary vintage, this is the ultimate collector’s wine without equal.

2008 Royal Tokaji Essencia Tokaji 375 ml Gift Box # 25443, $825

While Cabernet Sauvignon is the noble, signature red wine grape of Bordeaux, it has made an indelible and indispensable mark on the rest of of the wine world, especially in the New World. The extraordinary aspect of Cabernet Sauvignon is its ability to produce a wine that is so recognizable. The classic bouquet of black currants with hint of mint, the structure in its taste and the ability to reflect the individuality of the vintage make it a favourite of the world’s winemakers. No wonder its the world’s most widely planted wine grape. Heading down under to Australia, for the Yalumba winery, based in the premium Barossa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon is an extremely important member of its offering of red wines. It’s part of their iconic Y Series of varietals. The label shows a tractor, the essential “work horse” of the vineyard, emphasizing the importance the winery puts on its Cabernet Sauvignons. Deep garnet in colour, it is full bodied with dark fruits and herbal notes and subtle oak nuances dominating the bouquet. The taste is smooth and structured with soft tannins accenting the delivery. Bold yet approachable, it is ready to drink upon purchase. It is vegan friendly and can be paired nicely with most mushroom-based dishes. But our favourite is lamb kebabs off the barbie. You betcha mate!  

2019 Yalumba Y Series Cabernet Sauvignon # 17759, $14.95.

Looking to re-brand the winery name from the nice, but not very memorable or easy-to-pronounce, Scherzinger Family Vineyards, the new owners conducted research, including local history and folklore. They settled on the name Dirty Laundry. A hush hush part of local history revealed that the town of Summerland, British Columbia, had been home to a laundry that sometimes fronted as a brothel during the pioneer and railroad building era at the end of the nineteenth century. It was said the customers had the cleanest shirts and biggest smiles. Thus was born the playful, double entendre Dirty Laundry brand name. The labels show an old-fashioned laundry iron as the centerpiece tastefully surrounded by feminine lines. Sales went from 1,000 cases per year under the old brand name to the current 35,000 cases. But it’s not just a matter of catchy, clever packaging, branding, and marketing. The bevvy of medal wins from diverse competitions is additional proof of the brand’s success, a combination of elements brought together by the new owners. The 2018 Unoaked Chardonnay hails from two of their prime vineyard sites located in Summerland on western shores of Lake Okanagan. Fermented and aged only in stainless steel, the bouquet is crisp with orchard fruit aromas of apple and pear piqued by subtle nuances of lemon. Flavours of green apple and pear with a hint of lime finish with a bright, cleansing acidity. Enjoy with a pasta and a light cream sauce dish topped with crab or shrimp in order to include some protein in this delicious delicacy. If you have a hankering for cheese, end the meal with a soft goat cheese with a quince fruit preserve on the side. 

2018 Dirty Laundry Unoaked Chardonnay #22686, 19.95

Founded in 1857 by Count Agoston Haraszthy, who immigrated from Hungary, Buena Vista is one of California’s oldest wine properties. Located in the historic town of Sonoma, France’s renowned Boisset family from Burgundy bought the property and brought it back to life starting 2011 after a long Snow White sleep of inactivity. The original stone winery building, a  designated California Historic Landmark, was refurbished as a beautiful consumer tasting facility. A modern, state-of-the-art winemaking operation was added to take advantage of their abundant and diverse vineyard holdings in Sonoma County and further north along the California coast. Pinot Noir is the signature red grape of Burgundy and a staple of cooler climate regions of the New world. So it was only natural that Buena Vista, meaning “beautiful view” in Spanish, included it in its portfolio. Complex smoky, earthy, forest floor aromas, lead us to a silky mouth feel of red fruits and plum flavours. The finish lingers on long after swallowing. Enjoy with sliced smoked salmon and capers on whole grain artisanal bread spread with herbed Boursin cream cheese. While drinking nicely now, laying it down for a few years will reward drinkers for their patience. The Wine Enthusiast scored it with 91 points.          

2018 Buena Vista North Coast Pinot Noir #24112, $24.95 

Grapes left on the vine to ripen longer are called Late Harvest, obviously. They will have greater richness, complexity, more intense flavours and more pronounced colour. The German term for these wines is Spaetlese, pronounced Sh-payt-lay-zuh. It’s a specialty of Germany with a long history. The Dr. Max. Ferd. Richter Estate on the Mosel River is one of Germany’s classic, icons producing top drops from Riesling grapes grown on steep, southern-facing slate slopes. Hailing from their Elisenberger vineyard site, it was given to the family as gratitude for preventing their village from being sacked by the troops of Napolean 1 in Oct.,1813. The nose is attractive and all about fresh limes and crisp fruit aromas. A laser sharp acidity balances the sweet notes with a flavour that’s tightly structured and persistent. It may be laid down for several years to gain more complexity and nuances – pure hedonism. For right now enjoy it chilled – swirl, smell, sip, savour, and repeat. It’s a delicious pairing with soft cheeses such as brie or camembert. Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate gave it 94 points commenting that it could be laid down for up to twenty years – a real “sleeping beauty.”  

2019 Elisenberger Riesling Spaetlese  #25712, $29.95

The Viognier grape is responsible for some of France’s Rhône Valley premium and most expensive white wines, i.e. Chateau Grillet in Condrieu. Yalumba Winery, based in the Barossa Valley, had taken the initiative to plant this varietal in Australia starting over forty years ago. Yalumba is considered to be a leader in the growing of this varietal in the New World and specifically in the neighboring Eden Valley with its higher, cooler elevations. The vineyards are farmed and certified sustainable. Fermentation takes place spontaneously with wild yeasts. No commercial strains are used. Vegan friendly, it is bottled under their Y Series, a collection of iconic classic varietals produced in limited quantities. We are fortunate to have the Y Viognier available on LCBO shelves on a continuous basis. With a straw colour and medium bodied texture, we encounter notes of melon, honeysuckle and white flowers in the bouquet. Aging on the lees gives us a complex tasting palate with a lingering, silky finish. While delicious to be enjoyed as an aperitif, we can think of nothing better on these hot, sultry days or evenings, than to pair it with a cold, rich seafood salad. Don’t skimp on the lobster or crabmeat!

2021 Yalumba Y Series Viognier #470062, $14.95.

Did you know that Germany is the world’s third largest producer of Pinot Noir? While dry reds are the majority of the production, the Baden region, close to the French and Swiss borders, turns out some dandy dry rosés from this enchanting enclave. Hailing from the picturesque village of Koenigschaffhausen, the Pinot Noir grape thrives on the slopes of an extinct volcano called the Kaiserstuhl (Emperor’s Throne). The specific vineyard site where this rosé hails from is called Vulkanfelsen, translated volcanic rock. But don’t let a teutonic tongue twiste deter your enjoyment. During the production process the wine is left on the grape skins long enough to aquire the desired shade of pink the winemaker is looking for. With a bouquet of red berries and a pleasant, fruit driven dry taste, it sure is a seductive sipper. Swirl, sniff, sip. Snap your fingers and say, eins, zwei, dry, and pair this beauty with grilled salmon.     

2021 Pinot Noir Rose Dry ”Koenigschaffhausen Vulkanfelsen” #168237, $15.95.

With BBQ season on us in full force, the grills are being fired up for overtime duty to satisfy the crowds craving for meat prepared out of doors. Whether on the deck, patio, in the back yard or at the campsite, grillmeisters charge forward charring meat, whatever the cut. As the flames or the coals heat up the meat, the marbled fats melt and turn juicy keeping it moist, adding flavour and tenderness when chewing. What to serve with these yummy portions of protein? While full bodied red wines come to mind, we have another treat that combines complex smoke character. Smoke beer, called Rauchbier, a specialty from the city of Bamberg, Germany, is world famous. Aecht Schlenkerla, brewed since 1405, is the icon. While clocking in at a respectable 5.1% alc./vol., the smokiness comes from roasting the barley malt, integral to the brewing process, over beechwood logs. Dark brown in colour, it has a rich, foamy head exhibiting aromas of smoked meat/bacon and notes of charred wood, roasted coffee and dark chocolate. Full bodied and off dry, it is slightly bittersweet with a chewy texture. Flavours of smoke, charred wood, toasted nut and dark fruit, caramel and molasses provide a smokey, lingering finish. Not for the faint of heart, but really worth getting used to. Where’s that medium rare sirloin steak?

Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier 500 ml # 409110, $4.05

“Hark, what bright, light beverage through yonder window and on the shelves of the LCBO shines! Let us forget the slings and arrows of daily life and celebrate the warmth of summer with sparkle, flavour, refreshment, and merriment. Prancing on the palate, tickling one’s tonsils, tis pure enjoyment at its finest at a most modest price. Tis premixed without the toil and trouble of assembling the ingredients of sparkling wine and oranges from oriental lands. Imbibe on it’s own, citizens! Or, matcheth with Sundaye brunch. Ah, but one canst really savour the flavour even better when paired with eggs prepared Benedict style, named after the famous gastronome and member of the food fraternity. Alas, Romeo Mimosa will grace the shelves of the LCBO only for the few scant months of summer. The inventories will wither like an innocent flower taken from water. Parting will soon be such sweet sorrow, so thou shouldst hasten to acquire sufficient stocks in the meantime. Let us raise our drinking vessels and toast to the good company of good people everywhere.” Harry I, Part 1, Act 1, Scene 1.  

 Romeo Orange Mimosa #14388, $ 10.80.

Dolcetto is widely planted in northwestern Italy, but the Dogliani appellation in Piemonte is where this indigenous red grape really struts its stuff. While the grape is not mentioned on the front label, it is 100% Dolcetto. With the Alps towering majestically far in the background, the Bricco Rosso estate house, unmistakable with its red (rosso) stucco exterior, sits atop a hill with the vineyards trickling down from it in all directions to the surrounding valleys. It’s quite approachable now as a result of spending 6 months in large oak foudres plus 2 years minimum bottle aging. The bright, savoury black fruit nose leads us to rich succulent fruit on the palate with an underpinning of pleasant tannins. Nice lingering finish. Great pairing with a grilled, medium rare flank steak, or the Italian classic, Osso Bucco.

2019 Bricco Rosso Dogliani DOCG #705699, $15.95.

Skuttlebutt was the nautical term used on sailing ships of the past where sailors would come to get their fresh water. It was the spot to catch up on gossip and goings-on, not unlike the office water cooler nowadays. The perfect brand name, this Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blend, is a high-end example of a white “Bordeaux blend.” It is further proof that Australia’s Margaret River growing region in Western Australia, which benefits from the cooling effects of the Indian Ocean, is not unlike Bordeaux on the coast of the Atlantic. An aromatic, and colourful expression of the local terroir, it’s a perfect excuse to gather and “Skuttlebutt“ with friends. Notes of passion fruit, white peach and lime are balanced beautifully with a refreshing, crisp acidity. Poached Digby scallops drizzled with lime juice and paired with Skuttlebutt white would be the perfect nautical duo. James Halliday scored it 94 points with a “Special Value” designation. 

2020 Skuttlebutt Sauvignon Blanc / Semillon #47621, $18.95