Harry's Blog

The founder of California’s Bonny Doon Winery, Randall Grahm, is an icon. Enfant terrible, whimsical, intellectual, liberal arts proponent and eternal philosopher, he made his mark as a “Rhône Ranger.” A proponent of using red and white California-grown Rhône grape varietals, the winery is based in the Santa Cruz Mountains south of Silicon Valley. Grahm also spawned the term ABC as his mantra – Anything But Chardonnay. Despite what seems like a “fun” side of the business, these wines are serious. His tribute to high quality red Rhône-style blends is comically labelled Le Cigare Volant, the French term for what English speakers call a flying saucer. It refers to an ordinance passed by the local government officials in 1954 in Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France, that forbad flying cigars from landing in their vineyards. Instead, this wine has landed on the shelves of your local LCBO Vintages retail outlet instead. The key varietals of this blend are Grenache, Cinsault, and Syrah with small amounts of Petite Sirah and Counoise providing a supporting role. With a nose of red fruit, on a bit of the wild side, the effects of barrel toasting come through subtly. The palate greets us with nuances of lingering dark red fruits and exotic spices wrapped up in a medium body. We would recommend enjoying the “cigar” with a charcuterie board piled high with diverse cold cuts and characterful cheeses served with artisanal breads. An olive and nut bread loaf, with its Mediterranean origins, would be the perfect carb component. Wine Enthusiast magazine rated this wine 92 points.              

2020 Bonny Doon Le Cigare Volant #18516, $19.95.

No exit from the old year and into the new would be complete without Champagne to accompany the transition and festivities. There’s nothing like watching a steady stream of pin-point bubbles rise to the surface of your preferred style of glass – flute, coupe or high end stemware – as the clock ticks toward midnight. Champagne House Boizel, located on the avenue du Champagne in the town of Epernay, one of the epicentres of this famous fizz, was established in 1834. Deep below ground level, in a labyrinth of tunnels, their cuvées, blends of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier rest undisturbed in the dark. Their house style is one of utilizing a much higher thirty percent of reserve wines in the blend than is usually the case. Only first press juice is used. It is no surprise that the UK-based Decanter 2020 World Wine Awards accorded Boizel’s Brut Réserve non vintage the Platinum award, their highest honour and scored it 97 points. And the price is right at $64.95. So rush to your nearest LCBO retail store as quantities are limited. Enjoy on its own or with oysters, lobster, crab or lighter finger foods. Cheers and Happy New Year!!!!!

Boizel Brut Réserve Champagne NV #25514, $64.95.

While many of us may have visions of sugar plum fairies dancing around in our heads, or thoughts of turkey, there are meat lovers who crave hearty fare with full-bodied red wines while seated around the table during the Christmas holidays. We are fortunate to be able to offer consumers Cabernet-based wines from three continents. If still mourning England’s losses during the World Cup, Australia’s Claymore Winery, located in the Clare Valley, has a tasty Cabernet Malbec blend to help soothe the pain of the loss, but matches beautifully with prime rib. 2019 Claymore London Calling Cabernet Malbec #522110, $19.95. It received 95 points at the International Wine & Spirits Competition. Argentina is one the world’s largest producers of premium beef, and a major red wine producer too. Bordeaux’s Cabernet Franc grape has a found place of prominence in the Andean foothills vineyards in Mendoza region. 2018 Riglos Gran Cabernet Franc #26102, $33.95, hits a premium high note with esteemed journalist,Tim Atkin, giving it 95 points. Filet mignon, por favor. Lake County, California, north of Napa and Sonoma, is a new hot spot for Cabernet Sauvignon. At a higher elevation, with their cool nights, the grapes ripen at a slower pace and provide a freshness and balance essential to great Cabernet character. Shannon Ridge 2019 Buck Shack Cabernet Sauvignon #16201, $29.95, received 91 points from Wine Enthusiast. Top Sirloin, pleeeeze. All three wines exhibit shades of the classic bouquet of black currants with a hint of mint, deep garnet colour and a full body with the dark fruit underpinned by oak notes. Not just for enjoyment, but also perfect for gift giving, get yourself to your local LCBO retail store and pick up some of these bottles. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays and please enjoy these wines in moderation. 

Mulled wine, a sweetened red wine with added spices, served hot, has a long tradition. In fact, it is said to date back to 20 AD when the Romans started to add honey and spices to their wine. As the temperature drops, it’s a favourite consumed during the holiday season. Nothing like fending off the cold with a steaming, hot mug of this winter warmer. While shopping or socializing, this beverage, with a bit of a kick, is associated with good health, warmth and happiness. Christmas markets, so prevalent across northern Europe and the UK, are now catching on in North America. We have the Christkindl Market in Kitchener, as close as it gets to the real thing without having to travel to Germany. And then there’s the Toronto Distillery District Winter Village. Two entertaining destinations with a variety of offerings of food, beverage and gifting items. Check out the internet to see where there may be such activities close to home. And how about the ugly sweater craze that has captured the attention of the human race. What better combination than to offer a mulled wine, pre-mixed and bottled, with an unforgettable ugly sweater wrap motif. It’s conveniently available for purchase throughout the LCBO retail store system. Bring a few bottles home, heat to the desired temperature and take the occasion to get cozy and enjoy. Aromas of nutmeg, clove and orange peel gently waft from the cup. The taste of gingerbread is beautifully integrated with red wine flavours. Rich, with a gentle, restrained sweetness, the finish is all about Christmas spices. Visiting friends and relatives over the holidays? It makes for a great host or hostess gift, too.  

The Ugly Mulled Wine 750 mL #578021, $14.95.

With COVID restrictions finally subsiding and life returning to normal, sales of sparkling wines, and especially Champagne, are skyrocketing. While it’s definitely a reason to celebrate this holiday season, Champagne is the most versatile of wines that will pair with most foods, except red meat. Starting a meal with a flute of champagne with its effervescence, mineral tones and lively texture is mandatory. It will activate the palate and its nerve receptors leading the way to enjoy the dishes that follow. Seafood comes to mind. How about opening with oysters, complimented by caviar, or followed by lobster or haddock in dill cream sauce - heavenly. Then take a few sips of Champagne between courses to again cleanse the palate. And let’s not forget poultry such as chicken cordon bleu. Or Asian or fusion dishes. Taittinger Champagnes are some of Ontario’s most popular premium priced sparklers to be found at the LCBO retail stores. Taittinger Brut Réserve is pale lemon in colour and dry on the palate with an edge of minerality that emphasizes the fresh acidity. Accented by white fruits in the bouquet, the whole taste experience is carried forward by a steady stream of very fine pin point bubbles. 160 Aeroplan Bonus Points can be collected with every bottle purchased this month through to New Year’s Eve. It’s an added incentive to help usher in the New Year 2023. 

Taittinger Brut Réserve Champagne #365312, $61.20.

From November 20 to December 18, 32 national teams representing their respective countries are competing in the Emirate of Quatar for the coveted World Cup of Soccer trophy. As the first World Cup to be held in the Arab world, sixty-four matches are scheduled in eight venues ranging in capacity from 44,089 to 88,966 spectators. Of course the preferred beverage of choice in any soccer (football) stadium, pub, bar, club, or at home, while watching the matches playing out on the pitch, is beer. The northern hemisphere is nudging into winter with its low temperatures while in Quatar the daily temperatures this time of year average a comfortable range in the high 20’s to low 30’s Celsius. A thirsty throat environment for sure, even if not screaming and cheering on one’s favourite team. Due to cultural and religious reasons, the Quatari Government pulled its approval of allowing alcoholic beverages, mainly beer, to be served throughout the tournament.  While we prepare to watch what’s happening on the pitches, over here, fortunately, we can drop by our local beverage alcohol outlet, the LCBO, and pick up cans of Germany’s Gaffel Kölsch. A standard bearer for this top fermented ale, it is dry, light-bodied, soft and smooth with a touch of sweet malt, light fruit and citrus flavours. It refreshes with a pleasant bitterness on the finish. The 500 mL can, #430769, $2.95, is widely available. We are fortunate to also have the 5 Liter mini keg, #179465, $25.95, available at retail level in the LCBO Germany Destination Collection store #115, 115 King St. North, Waterloo. May the best team win!

Gérard Bertrand has played a major role in expanding awareness and demand for rosé wines all over the world. Based in the village of Narbonne, in the southern French region of Languedoc, his Côte des Roses Rosé has become a benchmark for dry rosés, long a staple of the Mediterranean coastline’s wine and food culture. It has now been wholeheartedly embraced by North American wine lovers and shows no signs of slowing down. The Côte des Roses bottle is iconic with its rose pattern incorporated in the glass base. But this is not just another pretty bottle. Brilliant pink in colour, the bouquet serenades us with a medley of summer fruits underpinned by gentle, yet seductive grapefruit notes. On the palate we encounter a very fresh yet complex mouth filling cornucopia of flavours. What’s really neat for this holiday season is the availability of three sizes of bottles to match the demands of the celebration. The 375ml size, # 11234, $10.95, is the ideal stocking stuffer or perfect for a dinner-for-two. The 750 ml size, # 373985 at $19.95 is an LCBO Vintages Essential listing, continuously available. The 3 Liter size, # 490912, $38.95, is perfect for larger family gatherings. Whether pairing with appetizers such as shrimps, dipped in mandatory cocktail sauce, or white or dark turkey meat, baked ham or even duck, Côtes des Roses Rosé, ticks off all the boxes for potential matches. Enjoy your favourite size of Côtes des Roses Rosé this holiday season, even just for sipping on its own.

As the leaves finally fall, baring the branches, temperatures dip ever lower. And when snow flurries start to whirl about, we begin to lean toward heartier food and drink. Dark beers, called dunkel in German, for sure fit the bill. The venerable Hofbräuhaus in Munich always comes up in any discussion concerning “classic” or “iconic” breweries. Their sublime Munich Dunkel contributes to the reverence for which beer afficionados hold this institution. Filling the glass with a deep, shimmering copper glow, it’s crowned by a lush tan head that lingers right to the last gulp. Rich aromas of sweet caramel and light toffee burst forth with a solid punch of spicy Munich malt. The silky smooth and seductive caramel and spice flavours lead to a perfect balance between malty sweetness and hop bitterness. Is it any wonder that Beer Consumer Magazine gave this brew a 97 point rating? Quite quaffable on its own, it would go great with pulled pork sandwiches or a more formal Beef Wellington.

Every famous wine appellation has a story behind it. This one basically boils down to a tug-of-war, political rather than theological, between Italy and France as to control of the Church. From 1378 to 1417, two clashing clergyman, John XXII and Clement V, claimed to be the true Pope. John XXII unknowingly gave his name to the most famous red wine, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, literally, new castle of the pope, when he built himself a summer home near Avignon in southern France. Nowadays, only bottles sporting the papal coat-of-arms on the neck of the bottle can be used. The appellation’s best vineyards lie in the hills north of the ruins of the papal palace. The soil, or lack of it, is legendary. Some vineyards, the ones that tend to be shown in pictures, are covered in a layer of fist-sized stones. The vast majority of vineyards, however, are a combination of various soil types of clay and sand and surface rocks. Châteauneuf-du-Pape can be a vinous cocktail, blending up to thirteen allowed grape varieties. The signature blend of every producer will emphasize spice versus tannins versus aging ability, or whatever the producer thinks will make his or her wine stand out. Ferraton Pere & Fils is an iconic Rhone Valley producer. Their 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah blend spends 20 days fermenting and then another 12-15 months in oak barriques. Brilliant garnet in colour, on the nose we get complex aromas of sour cherry and plum. We encounter silky tannins, long in the mouth, with further notes of leather and spice. Respected rater Jeb Dunnick gave it 92-94 points. Dark meats such as lamb, venison or roast duck will pair perfectly.

2020 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Le Parvis Ferraton P & F #638551, $59.95

After treating the tricksters, mom and dad deserve a treat too! To be sold as a Reserva classification, a Rioja wine from Spain must be aged in barrels for at least 3 years. Here we have an adult treat with 8 years of aging. No seniors’ stigma! It’s more like a baby boomer defying a numeric age designation by proving youthful spunk wrapped in dignified style.  One hundred percent Tempranillo grape, the ageing takes place in American oak which is favoured for its softening influence combined with mandatory hints of vanilla that show up on the nose. At one of the highest points in the Rioja Alavesa region, in the Village of Elvillar de Álava, the Meruelo family created Bodegas Heredad de Baroja in 1964. The winery itself was built with a single purpose in mind: turning top-quality Tempranillo grapes into classic expressions of elegant Rioja wine. Sourced from vineyards more than 600 meters above sea-level, on a base of clay and limestone soils, the grapes reach a perfect balance of ripeness and acidity due to dramatic temperature differences between night and day of 20 degrees Celsius, or more, during the grape ripening period. James Suckling awarded this wine 93 points. A feast for the senses, it is delicious and then peaks with a fruity, juicy exhibition of red berries, spice and vanilla. Mature and refined, it is drinking well now but will also keep on providing pleasure from the present through to 2026 and beyond. Pair with grilled chorizo sausage on a bed of saffron rice.

2014 Heredad de Baroja Rioja Reserva #26506, $25.95

Baden, actually pronounced Bah-den, is wonderfully good when it comes to anything relating to food and wine. Did you know that this picturesque German gem of a region, located along the Rhine River, bordering Switzerland and Alsace, has more starred Michelin restaurants than any other region of Germany? In fact, the French seem to know this since they flock to the area’s restaurants in droves, especially on weekends. And their wines are in the same style as Alsace - dry, fruit driven and food friendly. Of course, it helps that the local dialect, a derivative of German called Allemanisch, is the common lingo, uniting them. Only the Rhine River separates them physically. It is the Pinot varieties that are preferred, with Pinot Noir, locally called Spätburgunder, ranking number one. In fact, Germany is the third largest producer of Pinot Noir in the world, only behind France and the USA. This wine hails from the Königschaffhausen Winery, located in the town of the same name, on the slopes of the Kaiserstuhl, an ancient, extinct volcano. Steingrüble is the specific vineyard site. The winery has several times been named Germany’s “Pinot Noir Producer of the Year.” It’s dry, smooth and medium bodied with hints of cherries and red berry fruits in the bouquet. Pan-fried trout sprinkled with almond slivers to pair? You bet!

We all know some Harrys - Prince Harry, for sure! How about magician Harry Houdini, crooner Harry Connick Jr., U.S. President Harry Truman, singer Harry Stiles, Harry Pickering, founder of the world- famous Harry’s Bar in Venice, Italy, or our resident blogger Harry Drung? And let’s dare not forget Harry Potter. Looking for a name for their dry Rosé, New Zealand’s SOHO Winery chose the name Harry. According to the back label, their inspiration was “people with purpose and charm.” That would seem to fit a number of Harrys listed here, one way or the other. Also, “Harry is the quintessential wine of camaraderie,” says the back label, too. Pinot Noir-based, hailing from its own Marlborough vineyards, it’s a refreshing fusion of juicy berries, rosewater and royal sherbet leading to a delicious dry lingering finish. Wine Orbit rated it 93+ points. The production is certified sustainable. Also, it’s guaranteed 100% Vegan friendly. Sip with a poached salmon salad while reflecting about one of the Harrys mentioned here.

2021 SOHO WHITE COLLECTION HARRY ROSÉ #19545, $19.95.