Harry's Blog

Why did ham become the favourite meat of choice for Easter dinner? Historically, pigs were butchered in fall and the hams cured over the winter. They were ready to eat once spring arrived which coincided with the Easter season. This delectable dish takes the spotlight on the dinner table and will be served in copious quantities. But what wine should you pair it with? Red or White? Read on.

An off-dry Riesling coupled with it’s pleasant, bright acidity and citrus notes contrasts with the salty elements derived from the curing process in ham. And if your ham is topped with a sweet glaze or slices of pineapple, it will be enhanced by the subtle sweetness of Riesling. At your local LCBO, look for Henry of Pelham Riesling #268375, now  $2 off till April 23 for $15.95.

What about red wine? There are lots of Pinot Noir lovers everywhere. Its lighter body with a good acidy make it a sassy wine to go with ham. Pinot Noir pairs best with Black Forest style hams with their characteristic dry curing and smoking. Readily available in the market is the local PiIler’s brand harkening back to the founders’ German heritage. Pinot Noirs from Ontario’s Niagara region also have a complex, earthy, forest floor component that will compliment the meat but not overpower it.

Go for the Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir #13904, $15.95 with the extra incentive of 50 Aeroplan Bonus Points. 

Now available, here’s what a few reviewers from around the world have to say about my book., Clinking Outside the Box: The World in a Glass: 

“I’ve been dipping in and out of the text and I find it fascinating. You’ve managed to assemble bite-sized stories which have factual density and the charm of personal experience to drive the base. I think it’s a great formula.” Michael Fridjhon is South Africa’s most experienced wine judge and leading wine writer. Author, co-author or contributor to more than 40 books on wine.

“Whether it’s Harry’s ode to Pinot Noir or his experience of vertigo looking down the tortuous slope of the Treppchen vineyard in the Mosel, he has the literary knack of engaging us and sharing with us his consuming passion for the fermented grape. Read this book with a glass of wine in hand. Preferably Riesling.” Tony Aspler, the Wine Guy, and recipient of the Order of Canada, is the author of 27 books, most of which are based on wine and food. He is widely respected as Canada’s leading wine expert.

For more details and availability of the book go visit www.harrydrung.com

While reading this book may I recommend accompanying it with a glass of Relax Riesling #621888, $14.45, Canada’s best-selling imported Riesling. Look for the newly released 1.5 Liter size #30561 at $26.45. Both sizes are available at your favourite LCBO outlet.

New Zealand has made its mark in the wine world with its signature Sauvignon Blanc white wines. In the four corners of the world, this Kiwi grown grape continues to garner a huge following as it ticks off the boxes that today’s consumer is looking for. Even producers in the grape’s ancestral homeland, the Loire River Valley of France, are taking notice. White Cliff Winery took it’s name from the majestic white cliffs that rise out of the river bordering their original vineyard site in Hawke’s Bay, North Island, New Zealand. Breathtaking and beautiful they captured the feeling of White Cliff’s collection of wines. This Sauvignon Blanc is sourced from their premium vineyards located in the Marlborough region located at the north end at the South Island. Very dry with floral notes of gooseberry, kiwi, grapefruit and honeydew melon, the finish is long and crisp. Looking for an extremely easy-to-prepare, tasty pairing? One of our house favourites is fusilli pasta tossed with Classico brand pesto, readily available in most grocery chains. This crushed fresh basil, olive oil and garlic mixture will bring out the best of any pasta dish. To add some colour, toss in sliced marinated black olives and then spread grated parmesan liberally on top. Truly a kitchen creation with Kiwi collaboration. You betcha mate!  Drop by your local LCBO store and pick up a bottle or two.

 

2022 White Cliff Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc #610972, $18.00

It’s the case where the sum of the parts is greater than the whole. Some of the world’s greatest wines are blends and not made from just one grape variety. Think of the great Château wines of Bordeaux, many selling in the hundreds, some in the thousands of dollars. Just two weeks ago we were fortunate to visit our Chilean supplier, Matetic Vineyards. Located in the El Rosario Valley, part of the San Antonio appellation, its vineyards are only 15 km from the Pacific Ocean with cooling ocean breezes funnelling in. Matetic is making its mark locally and internationally with cool climate Syrah. Hailing from its oldest vineyard blocks, Syrah makes up 50% of the blend with equal parts of Malbec and Cabernet Franc making up the balance. Intense red fruit aromas along with cocoa and spices dominate the bouquet. On the palate the wine is full bodied with round smooth tannins and juicy acidity. At Matetic’s on-site restaurant, Equilibrio, we were able to enjoy their signature beef dish - short ribs- with this wine. Beef ribs are braised in their Syrah. And then cooked sous-vide, meaning vacuum sealing the meat in a bag with its own juices and then cooking it to a precise temperature in a water bath. The juiciest and most tender meat we have ever tasted, it just fell off the bone. And then to pair it with Corralillo Winemaker’s Blend - magic! Definitely worth the 11 hour flight from Toronto. Tim Atkin scored the wine with 92 points.      

 

 2019 Matetic Corralillo Winemaker’s Blend # 541177, $25.95

 Asado, the Argentine word for grilled meat, is to die for. Best enjoyed in Parillas (special steak restaurants), barbecuing here is taken to heights one cannot imagine. Having just been in Buenos Aires, the holy grail of grilling is La Cabrera in the Palermo Soho district of the nation’s capitol. What makes the meat so special is that the beef is ranch raised on the pampas, gaucho (cowboy) guided and grass fed. No fattening and force feeding of cattle in commercial feedlots. All natural, the flavours of the grilled cuts of meat of your choosing deliver slice after slice of mouth-watering taste sensations as you cut your way through the hunk of protein paradise gloriously presented on your plate. Ask your local butchers if they can source some Argentine beef so you may taste what we are talking about. While Malbec may be Argentina’s signature red grape variety, Cabernet Sauvignon does not need to hide in the wings. The Arizu family have been growing grapes for over 120 years in the Lujan de Cuyo district of Mendoza, Argentina’s prime vineyard region. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from vines that average forty years of age, it is aged 14 months in oak before release. While it’s a bit young, it will benefit from decanting for an hour. Full bodied, with black fruits in the bouquet with chewy tannins in the body, it will cut nicely through the beef pairing. James Suckling scored it with 90 points. 

2020 Luigi Bosca Mendoza Cabernet Sauvignon #128629, $20.95

The huge Mediterranean Island of Sicily could be considered its own continent, or country for that matter. The diverse geography ranges from mountains to sandy beaches with huge expanses of vineyards, farmed fields and woodlands in between. Since antiquity, it’s been at the crossroads of civilization. It was the bread basket of ancient Greece. As well, the Greeks brought viticulture to the island over 3,000 years ago. Whether it’s the historic Valley of the Temples in Agrigento or Mount Aetna that erupts regularly, and everything in between, it’s a kaleidoscope of culture, places and landscapes. And let’s not forget the sun and moderate climate for which the term “Mediterranean” is known the world over. Nero D’Avola is the best known and most widely planted red varietal and is indigenous to the island. It yields wines of deep colour and flavour, with moderate structure, juicy acidity and soft-to-medium tannins. Flavors of dark, brambly fruit and spice are common. It ticks off all the boxes for what consumers are looking for in a red wine that overdelivers for the price. Our Nero D’Avolo, from the well-known Sicilian-based Cusumano winery, and readily available at your favourite LCBO outlet, is youthful and meant to be drunk upon purchase. Sicily is a wine and food lover’s paradise so feel free to choose any traditional Italian meat dish such as lasagna, meatballs, pizza, red meat or lamb tagine with which to savour this delicious wine.

Cusumano Nero D’Avola Sicilia  #143164, $13.95

Mention Spain, and most folks will rhyme off the region of Rioja when it comes to serious red wine. Rioja stems from the name of one of the tiny tributaries of the Ebro River called Rio (River) Oja, hence Rioja. Tempranillo is the main red grape variety giving us wines that are distinguished by complex aromas and flavours as well great aging potential. All Rioja wines are classified according to the minimum amount of aging. Our Crianza, highlighted here, must be aged for a minimum of two years – of which one must be in oak casks, almost always American. The seductive scent of vanilla, thanks to the oak, notes of red fruit, chewy, intense tannins and medium body give us a wine with great finesse and a lingering finish. The producer, CVNE, is one of Rioja’ greatest wineries that always punches way above its weight delivering outstanding value.

It's vegan and was scored 93 points by respected wine journalist James Suckling. Grilled lamb is a specialty of Rioja, so head to your local meat counter to pick up some lamb chops. We like to marinate them for a few hours in an olive oil, garlic and rosemary mixture before turning on the heat.        

2019 Viña Real Crianza Rioja #657411, $19.95

There are three Speck brothers, Paul, Matt and Dan, owners of Niagara’s Henry of Pelham Estate Winery. They put their hearts and souls, and investment in time and energy, into every wine they release. While three-of-a-kind is only the sixth best possible hand in poker, there’s no risk in visiting your local LCBO store to buy and then enjoy their Three of Hearts Rosé. The name is so perfect for the romantic, heart-themed month of February with Valentines Day falling right in the middle on the 14^th.

This rosé blend of Pinot Noir/Pinot Gris is vinified only in stainless steel in order to preserve the delicacy and precision of the fruit. It’s a food-friendly wine with bright, vivid red plum, ripe berries with nutty, mushroom and gentle smoke notes. The finish is fresh and  balanced and is perfect for sipping on its own with your favourite loved one(s). Pair with grilled seafood or roast chicken. For the month of February there’s also a limited time offer of $2 off per bottle.

Speck Bros. Three of Hearts Rosé VQA #552562, $19.95 now $17.95.

When May de Lencquesaing sold her famous Chateau Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande estate in Bordeaux and established the Glenelly Winery in Stellenbosch, South Africa, she took her world-renowned glass collection along. The modern Glenelly winery building was designed to incorporate the Glass Museum in one of its wings in order to continue to showcase this treasure trove of unique pieces. It is one of the largest privately-owned collections in the world. The exhibits range from the 1st and 2nd Century to modern classics, including pieces by Salvador Dali and Lino Tagliapietra. Any visitor to Cape Town ought to make a bee line for the Glenelly property to taste their wines and tour the museum, only a leisurely 45 minute car ride away. Not to be missed as well is savouring a meal at the winery’s Vine Bistro. The breathtaking view overlooking the vineyards and towering Drakenstein mountain range in the background will never be forgotten. It serves classic French bistro food with a modern twist and is paired with their award-winning Glenelly wines. The kitchen team, headed by chefs Christophe Dehoss and Michael Saville, work with the best local ingredients available to present diners the art of French cooking. It comes as no surprise, then, that Glass Collection is the name of Glenelly’s range of estate bottled varietal wines. Merlot, the classic Bordeaux varietal with a South African twist, gives us red berry, vanilla and spice in the nose wrapped up in a balanced, complex yet soft body. Braai is the South African term for BBQ. Since we are now in the depths of Canadian winter, pick up some prepared baby back ribs that are readily available at your local supermarket to spare you trying to be a hero with the below zero BBQ thing. 2018 Glenelly Glass Collection Merlot #26669, $16.95, Then, there’s the winery’s flagship wine, Lady May, a super premium Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc blend. Meant to be laid down for a number of years, it’s drinking well now.

 

2014 Glenelly Lady May #480426, $46.

Primus is the Latin word for “first in its kind.” Obviously, it’s the source of the English word prime. Prime time, prime rate, prime rib, prime minister, prime of life, prime the pump -  you get the picture. Primus is also the perfect name for a wine that represents top quality. Cabernet Sauvignon is a work horse varietal in Chile with extensive acreage. But this version is grown on special parcels located in higher altitude alluvial terraces of the Maipo Valley at the foot of the Andes mountains. Hence, the appellation of origin on the front label reads Alto (high in Spanish) Maipo. It’s vegan and certified sustainable too. This cab brims with lively aromas of dark berries mixed with vanilla and cedar notes. The full bodied sensation on the palate is firm with chewy tannins while the finish carries through with lengthy fruit accents. And, naturally, this wine deserves to be served with rare prime rib. James Suckling scored this wine with 91 points.

2019 Primus Alto Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon #486043, $22.95

The jewel of Lake County is the body of water it’s named for, Clear Lake. The largest natural freshwater lake in California, it’s a popular destination for water skiing, bass fishing and kayaking but also acts as moderating climate influencer. North of Napa and Sonoma, Lake County, in the shadow of Mt. Konocti, an extinct volcano, has built up a reputation for its fine, affordable Cabernet Sauvignons. The Shannon Family, with their base here, has been a local ranching fixture for several generations. In 1996, they identified prime locations, planted vineyards and began making wine. Going forward from 2022, their vineyards are now certified organic and sustainable. While the appellation is Lake County, all of the fruit comes from three estate-owned higher elevation vineyards located in the High Valley, Red Hills and Big Valley sub-appellations. Gentle, smoky oak aromas start us off. Seductive, mouth-filling, dark berry fruit flavours are followed by notes of pepper and spice leading to a lengthy, satisfying finish marked by hints of cedar and smoky oak. A soft grip of tannins in the finish wraps up this noble yet very approachable Cabernet Sauvignon. On the way to your local LCBO retail outlet to purchase this wine, make sure to drop by your local butcher to pick up some lamb chops that beckon to be BBQ’d and paired with this complex red. Wine Enthusiast scored the wine with 92 points.  

2019 Shannon Ridge High Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon #16182, $21.95.

William Fèvre (pronounced Fev-Ruh) is an icon French producer famous for his Chablis wines that must be produced exclusively from the Chardonnay grape. I can remember meeting him quite a long time ago at his estate in the village of Chablis where he lamented the fact that New World producers were using the term “Chablis” indiscriminately for any white wine. International trade negotiations finally put a stop to this unethical practice. When Fèvre set up a joint venture winery bearing the family name in Chile 25 years ago, they imported Chardonnay rootstock from his own vineyards in Chablis. He gave the name to this line of Chardonnay, Espino, wines grown in and around nettles and briars which border his property. Bone dry with less than 2 gm/l residual sugar and fermented and aged exclusively in stainless steel, subtle hints of flint, a Chablis characteristic, together with notes of stone fruits, come through in the bouquet. Serve with scallops or baked salmon. At this time of year, these seafoods, caught in the cold waters off the coast of Chile, are probably what’s available in the seafood sections of Canadian supermarkets. A perfect land and sea pairing. Check out this Chilean at your local LCBO outlet Vintages section.  Buen Apetito!          

2021 William Fèvre Espino Reserva Especial Chardonnay #350058 , $15.95