Harry's Blog

For this Canada Day weekend, let’s for once try to get away a bit from the standard oversubscribed selection of BBQ-ed items. Poutine is one of those dishes that is an all-Canadian classic. Its origins are in the French-speaking province of Quebec. But it’s easy to prepare at home or at the cottage too. French fries are covered with cheese curds that are supposed to soften up, melt and fill the crevasses between the fries. Then, ladle over with a meat-based ooey, gooey gravy of your choice. What we’ve got here is a Canadian cornucopia of textures and flavors all coming together to party on one’s palate before swallowing. Potatoes with their starch, cheese curds with proteins that are obliged to squeak when bitten into, and gravy with a seductive viscosity coming from animal juices, do their tasty thing. An overall pleasant mouthfeel with all these components creates the concept of flavour, even umami. While carbonated drinks are a popular accompanying beverage, wine will pair quite nicely. But what wine? We recommend a medium-bodied wine with berry notes, a pleasant acidity and just a teeny tad of sweetness. 2021 Henry of Pelham VQA Rosé from the Niagara Peninsula, featured in the Summer Edition of LCBO’s popular Food and Drink Magazine, ticks off all the boxes. And please enjoy poutine as a side dish and carb component with any of your favourite BBQ items. HAPPY CANADA DAY!!!!!!

2021 Henry of Pelham VQA Niagara Peninsula Rosé #613471, $12.95. (regularly $14.95, now $2.00 off LCBO until July 16^th)

All the major Port producers have vineyard holdings called quintas, especially in the upper reaches of the Douro River, about 125 km inland from the Atlantic Ocean. Not only is Real Companhia Velha Portugal’s oldest and largest port producer, they also produce table wines from their extensive holdings of prime vineyard land along the steep and winding slopes of the Douro. This gives them a phenomenal choice of the very best parcels to allocate for their red table wine production. Many of them, quite old, are planted with the “usual suspects” of grapes, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz (a.k.a. Tempranillo), Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca. Hot, hot, hot is the climate with stifling temperatures in summer. Steep, steep, steep are the rugged slopes where most of the vines are planted on neat terraces. Some of the old stone-walled terraces have actually been preserved in order for the region to keep its UNESCO World Heritage Site designation. Soil is almost non-existent on the steep hillsides which is why walls were built. Newer terraces can now be worked by tractor as a result of vineyard rationalization that took place in the 1970’s and 1980’s due to the dwindling labor force. The reduction of Port wine output has proven to be a benefit to the production of dry red table wines using the very same high quality grape varieties. One of the region’s best quintas is the Quinta dos Aciprestes. It extends for over 2 kilometres on the left bank of the Douro river facing the tributary Tua river. The Quinta is easily identified by the large cypress trees, located around the estate’s mansion. The quinta is characterized by the planting of vines in vertical rows highlighting the absence of the traditional terraces, the result of the recent reconversion that took place in the vineyard. A rich wine, dense with young tannins plus barrique aging in quality oak has given the wine a smooth, approachable texture balancing the fruit and structure. At almost six years of age, it’s very approachable, but a few more years rest wouldn’t harm it. Wine Enthusiast Magazine gave it 92 points. Enjoy with lamb chops grilled on the BBQ. Pick up a bottle or two (or more) this weekend, as you browse your local LCBO Vintages section.

2017 Quinta dos Aciprestes Douro #703561, $19.95.

Join us this Saturday, June 17^th, 11-6 p.m., and enjoy Henry of Pelham Winery’s Sippin’ Wine and Smokin’ Trout offering as part of the Niagara Wine Country Discovery Pass program. Chef Erin Peacock from the NEW Short Hills Kitchen will offer savoury profiteroles of smoked trout mousse with pickled horseradish and zest of citrus. This will be perfectly paired with the 2021 vintage Henry of Pelham Estate Riesling or Peachy Sangria Mocktail.

 Stop by and also meet our resident blogger, Harry Drung, from 11–4 p.m. for the opportunity to have his new book signed, “Clinking Outside the Box: The World in a Glass”.  Looking forward to clinking with you.

California has always loomed large on the horizon both geographically and as a metaphor conjuring up all kinds of associations including sun and surf, a carefree attitude, Hollywood, Silicon Valley and, of course, wine. Chardonnay is the state’s benchmark white wine. Joliesse is the French word for grace and loveliness, which is what the winemaker seeks to create with each vintage. Sunshine guides us in all that we do and experience. As the sun and the stars light our skies, so too does the Joliesse label – with its depiction of rays of the sun and stars. Joliesse has harnessed the power of California sunshine. Joliesse Chardonnay opens with a bouquet that features intense aromatics of ripe yellow peach and Meyer lemons. The palate delivers layers of bright flavors of ripe pear, subtle lemon and nectarines topped off with a hint of vanilla bean on the finish. Baked brioche and a touch of almond make a creamy texture that leads to a long, elegant finish. That Joliesse Vineyards is owned by the Boisset family from Burgundy adds a little extra panache to the flavour experience. Enjoy with a crab meat salad or sip solo as you are transported mentally to a location of your choice on the California coastline. 

Joliesse Vineyards California Chardonnay #25947, $14.95 (LCBO Limited Time Offer from May 20 -June 18)

Hailing from select vineyards from along Germany’s famous Rhine River, it’s a little drier than off-dry with refreshing citrus flavours. It’s easy to swallow at $12.00 with $2 off the regular shelf price of $14 from May 20 to June 17. With warmer temperatures showing up a bit earlier than usual, it’s a tasty, affordable summer weather sipping crowd pleaser. On the patio, by the pool. on the home’s deck or on the deck of your moored boat, under the stars, in the sun, in your tent, in your room, by the BBQ – we are running out of options. It will compliment a wide range of cuisines and is enjoyable on its own. Fünf is the German word for five. After all, it’s five o’clock somewhere and fun begins at 5, right? Looking for lower alcohol, Fünf Riesling clocks in at a modest 9 %.  

Fünf German Riesling #175026, $12.00 ($2 off till June 17 at LCBO stores).

The Hampton’s, eastern end of Long Island, is where New York City folk escape to, especially on weekends. Southampton, Westhampton, East Hampton or surrounding hamlets, they make up the South Fork, an extremely popular seaside destination. The towns are abuzz with those that have luxurious summer homes, are year round residents or tourists coming to visit and enjoy miles of sandy beaches where the Atlantic Ocean laps onto the picturesque shoreline. What might Hampton water be?  Well, the first sip of Hampton Water Rosé is quite like the name suggests - a dive into the luxury of the Hamptons. It was launched by Jesse Bongiovi and famous singer-father, Jon Bon Jovi. After a night out, dad Jon offered son Jesse a sip of what he called “pink juice.” It flowed so freely and, in fun, Jesse said it was Hampton water. Lights went off and this conversation started the ball rolling to create what is now the Number One branded rosé in the world. One of the most renowned winemakers from the Languedoc-Roussillon region of Southern France, and rosé specialist, Gérard Betrand, is their partner for this project. A French blend of Grenache, Cinsault and Mourvèdre grapes, Hampton Water is not just another pale rosé in a pretty bottle. It represents an easy-going lifestyle and appreciation of the wonder and beauty that surrounds you no matter where you are from, or going to. Is it any wonder that leading magazine, Wine Spectator, named it “Best Rose in the World”?  Fresh and lively, but revealing serious winemaking, melon and soft berry notes pave the way to a long, lingering finish. Make your way to the local LCBO outlet to pick up a few bottles for enjoyment on its own or with endless options of lighter foods.    

2022 Hampton Water Rosé #667337, $29.95

It’s quite simple, no matter how expensive the wine, or famous the village, red Burgundy wines are made from the Pinot Noir grape. It is the most tantalizing of the world’s noble grapes and achieves unsurpassed heights when at its best. It is finicky, susceptible to spring frosts and winter cold and dislikes excess heat. The berries are blue-black in colour with relatively thick skins. The Cote d’Or, or golden slope, is Burgundy’s ancestral home. One of the most respected Burgundy merchants is the House of Moillard. Shipped from the famous village of Meursault, it was founded in the year 1850 and owns acreage in some of Burgundy’s most famous and expensive appellations where the retail prices can hover in the range of hundreds of dollars a bottle. Don’t let this scare you because Moillard also produces an affordable entry level Pinot Noir for everyday enjoyment. With the Bourgogne (Burgundy) appellation, it’s a blend from a variety of vineyard sites that expresses the best characteristics of the grape. It is ripe and approachable, with bright red cherry-berry fruit underpinned with oak and spice notes. A great food wine, it will compliment and not overpower dishes. BBQing this long May weekend is mandatory as we get ready to nudge into summer. Fish or fowl? Let’s do both and pair this wine with grilled salmon and grilled chicken breasts. It’s now an LCBO Vintages Essentials listing with year-round availability. 

2021 Moillard Bourgogne Pinot Noir # 28360, $29.95

No brunch would be complete without a Mimosa or two alongside your eggs benedict and smoked salmon. It’s a great tipple to enjoy before a wedding, or especially this Mother’s Day weekend. But the history behind this favourite pre-midday cocktail is much disputed. Mimosa gets its name from the Australian yellow-orange shrub technically known as Acacia dealbata. The Mimosa is said to be connected to a bartender called Frank Meier who created it in the Ritz Hotel in Paris. His drink was a slightly more diluted version of Buck’s Fizz, Britain’s orange and sparkling wine cocktail using equal measures of both ingredients. However, Meier never actually took the credit for the cocktail, despite mentioning it in his book, “The Artistry of Mixing Drinks.” Some suggest that the drink was created in San Francisco by none other than film director Alfred Hitchcock, who is thought to have created it in the 1940’s causing its popularity to spread throughout North America. Now in 2023, the Herres Winery has come to the rescue. Having shown up several times as a seasonal summer listing with the LCBO, it is now available on a continuous basis. Ontario consumers may enjoy this yummy imported sparkling cocktail pre-mixed without having to go through the time-consuming exercise mixing up one’s own Mimosa hoping to hit the right combination of flavour and sparkle. The effervescence brings a liveliness as well as balance to the citrus elements of the orange. Enjoy whenever the occasion calls, not just for brunch, but also as a refresher on the patio or deck during sultry summer days and nights.

Romeo Orange Mimosa #14388, $13.45

While there is some contention as to how and by whom the Zinfandel grape was introduced to California from Europe in the mid 1800’s, it remains one of the “golden state’s” signature varietals. Whether this exotic black variety has been made into full-bodied reds, currently popular, or a foray into providing the key ingredient for producing huge quantities of sweet pink wine called White Zinfandel in the latter part of the 20^th Century, “Zin is still in,” big time. After more than 150 years of questioning its origins, through DNA finger printing, it was irrefutably demonstrated that Zinfandel is one and the same as the Primitivo grape, mainstay of southern Italy. Hailing from their estate vineyards in the High Valley viticultural area of Lake County, north of Sonoma, Zinfandel is a respected staple in Shannon Ridge Winery’s product line up. Grown at elevations between 490 and 915 meters above sea level, the slightly cooler micro-climate, combined with significant day to night temperature swings, means the grapes retain a refreshing acidity. This serves as a counter balance to the fuller body and slightly higher alcohol levels one gets with Zinfandel. The dark fruit bouquet, and then the body with nicely integrated spice and smoke elements, provide a long smooth finish. Since Lake County is also cattle country, let’s serve this wine with a “cowboy cut” steak, a thick, bone-in ribeye meant for two.       

2019 High Valley Vineyard Zinfandel #22033, $24.95.

Earth Day is an annual event that was held on April 22 to demonstrate support for protection of the environment. It was first held on April 22, 1970 and now includes events coordinated globally including one billion people in more than 193 countries. The official theme for 2023 is “Invest in Our Planet.” The movement to protect the environment has never been more critical with sustainable practices on-going at Henry of Pelham Family Estate Winery. Not just a mantra for a one day celebration, it’s a consistent battle cry for every human on the planet to do their part. We are certified by Sustainable Winemaking Ontario and are committed to minimizing the environmental footprint in the winery and vineyard. This is critical for the long-term preservation of both Ontario's Greenbelt, and the Niagara Escarpment, a UNESCO World Biosphere Reserve. Look for the sustainable symbol included on the back label of our wines. Sustainable agriculture initiatives include energy efficiency, judicious water usage, woodland preservation, wetland restoration and bio filters. Henry of Pelham’s wife, widow, and family patriarch, is honoured through this bubbly’s brand name. The traditional grape varieties of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, from family-owned vineyards, are the basis of the Niagara based cuvée. After the secondary fermentation in the bottle, the wine is aged up to 24 months on the lees. With berry tones, round and perfumed, let’s celebrate sustainability with a glass and watch a steady stream of fine pinpoint bubbles mesmerize us. Enjoy solo or with smoked salmon paté. UK’s prestigious Decanter Magazine awarded it a Gold Medal at their World Wine Awards.

Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine Brut Rosé #217505, $32.95.

Green nowadays, of course, refers to doing everything to minimize the effect of human activity on the environment. Sustainability, carbon neutrality, eco-friendliness, recycle, re-use, and renew are just a few of the buzz words bandied about and implemented, hopefully. The wine industry has been a leader in the green movement for a long time already. Bravo! But let’s take a detour to Portugal and its “green” wine, that’s been around for ages - Vinho Verde, literally translated as green wine. Vinho Verde is considered “green” because it’s usually the first wine of the harvest to be released as young, or green, as the Portuguese call it. Also, northern Portugal’s Minho province is in the rain path of the Atlantic Ocean so the whole landscape is exceptionally verdant. Vinho Verde is usually a blend of different local grape varieties, primarily Alvarinho, Arinto and Loureiro. Here we have an example of the Loureiro varietal going solo. Dry, with a refreshing acidity, and a bit of spritz, its very refreshing as an aperitif, but is a great pairing with seafood, given the region’s proximity to the Atlantic. For us, the ideal match is fresh cod, the Portuguese specialty, baked with regular brushings of olive oil, lemon and herbs to keep the fish moist and flaky. And serve it with a mango based salsa for a contrast in flavours and textures. Available at your local LCBO stores as of April 15^th.        

2022 Curvos Loureiro Vinho Verde # 471284, $14.95

I recommend enjoying this wine while reading a good book. There is undisputed medical evidence that reading is beneficial to one’s mental health. Richard Steele said: “Reading is to the mind what exercise is to the body.” The Bookwalter Winery’s “Readers” range of wines takes its inspiration from its play on the word “book,” part of the family name. Just look at the label, and the depiction of the capital letter “B” superimposed and mirrored  on a pair of reading glasses, is uncanny. Their entry level range of wines is called Bookmark. And guess what the winery’s dining venue is called? Fiction Restaurant. Now to the wine! The 2019 Readers Cabernet Sauvignon is garnet in colour with aromas of black and red fruits and notes of vanilla. Further hints of cedar tease your senses while gently gliding into a long, juicy finish. Tim Fish of Wine Spectator gave it 92 points. And looking for that book packed with stories of wine, travel, food and humour? Go to www.harrydrung.com for details of my new book, “Clinking Outside the Box: The World in a Glass.” If you need food, how about soft tacos filled with thin slices of medium rare flank steak smothered in spicy cabbage slaw?  But if you can wait, you, the purchaser, will be rewarded by laying down a few bottles as the wine matures and gains greater complexity. Available at your local LCBO Vintages stores on April 14^th. 

2019 Bookwalter Readers Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon #13238, $32.95